RECONSTRCTION
COTE - HARDIE
This carefully constructed replica of a parti-colored medieval cote-hardie (outer dress), with its undergarments, is in blue and murrey (mulberry-red).
It follows the styles found on memorial brasses from around 1375-85, which show the wives of knights and barons in formal or courtly dress.
The cut and constructionh -- four A-line, floor-length panels of fulled (thickened) wool twill with short inset sleeves -- have been conjectured by dressmaker Sarah Thursfield.
Although the shape looks simple to modern eyes, the figure-hugging cut and low neck were considered shocking at the time, and the bright dyes and rows of tiny buttons were condemned as extravagant.
Under the dress is a gray wool kirtle, lined with blue linen and laced at the center front.
TWO FOR ONE
The mi-parti (part-colored) effect of this dress was very fashionable.
The dress is constructed in identical halves so it appears entirely red from one side and entirely blue from the other.
INNOVATIONS
Earlier dresses had long tippets cut as part of the sleeve and faced with fur.
The white cloth streamers on this cote-hardie could be a successor to these.
Buttons were fashionable for both men and women: the most expensive, with precious stones, were made by goldsmiths; cheaper ones were cast in pewter.
重建
柯特哈蒂裙
這款精心構(gòu)造的半身復(fù)合色彩中世紀(jì)cote-hardie柯特哈蒂裙(外衣)霎奢,在貼身內(nèi)衣之上,是雙色的拼接菩暗。
它遵循了來自1375至85年黃銅紀(jì)念碑上的風(fēng)格朗若,它展現(xiàn)了騎士與男爵的妻子正式有禮的穿著。
剪裁與構(gòu)造 - 四條A字形,拖地長度的羊毛斜紋面料配上短的內(nèi)接袖 - 被裁縫師Sarah Thursfield推測出來邪铲。
盡管用現(xiàn)代眼光看這些廓形很簡單,但在當(dāng)時這樣的貼身裁剪與低領(lǐng)設(shè)計是非常令人震驚的无拗,再加上亮麗染色與小排紐扣已經(jīng)是非常奢侈的了带到。
哈蒂裙下是一條羊毛袍子,里面以亞麻襯里裝飾英染,并在前胸中間加上綁帶揽惹。
合二為一
這件裙子的拼色效果在當(dāng)時是非常時尚的婴梧。
裙子是以相同的半片構(gòu)造的退客,所以從一側(cè)看起來它完全是紅的县爬,另一側(cè)則是完全藍(lán)色病往。
變革創(chuàng)新
早期的裙裝上有長長尖尖的下垂設(shè)計这刷,表面會鑲一塊毛皮蒿褂。
這款哈蒂裙上的白色飄帶可能是這種設(shè)計的延續(xù)监嗜。
紐扣對男女來說都是時尚:最昂貴的鑲嵌寶石的是由金匠制作的非迹;便宜的用鉛和錫的合金制作毕泌。