FRIVOLITY AT COURT
Henri III, who reigned as King of Poland-Lithuania from 1573-75, and of France from 1574-89, was an elegant, cultured young man who adored clothes and dressing up.
He demanded the highest standards of dress from his courtiers, expecially the effeminate, frivolous young men in his entourage called Les Mignons (Darlings).
They plucked their eyebrows, powdered their faces, and adopted feminine accessories such as small dogs and muffs.
His mistresses wore the kind of exuberant dress seen in this ball painting.
The flat French farthingale, would-be lovers complained, kept men at a distance, as did huge stuffed sleeves.
The turned-back fronts of gowns revealed white bosoms above sharply pointed bodices supported by whalebone.
Both sexes indulged in luxuries, such as exquisite lace, perfume, and jewelry -- Henri was noted for his pearl earrings.
Henri lighted the austere Spanish influence at the French court.
Men and women wore such vast starched ruffs that people told courtiers they looked like John the Baptist's head on the platter.
From his time as Polish king Henri brought back fuller breeches called Venetians or Polacks, as well as small Polish caps decorated with gems and aigrettes.
Once he galloped through Paris's streets with 30 young men all dressed alike in Italian-inspired pantaloons.
Banquets where men dressed as women and vice versa, or spectacular balls where male clothing outshone female, show Henri III's appetite for fun, novelty, pleasure, and flair -- the essence of fashion.
法國的自由
亨利三世铜秆,1573至75年洋丐,是波蘭立陶宛王國統(tǒng)治者转绷,1574至1589年到法國繼位蓄拣,是一位崇尚穿著與打扮的優(yōu)雅又有文化的年輕人蜕琴。
他為他的臣仆建立了最高的服飾標(biāo)準(zhǔn),特別是他柔弱輕浮的隨從,一個叫萊米斯(Darlings)的年輕人氧枣。
他們拔眉毛,在臉上撲粉别垮,并采用一些例如小狗便监,暖手桶之類的女性配飾。
在這幅宮廷畫中您能看到他的情婦穿著的那種盛大的禮服碳想。
那種平面的法式裙撐烧董,會受到戀人的抱怨,保持與男性的距離胧奔,與巨型填充袖如出一轍逊移。
轉(zhuǎn)過身來的前面,袒露著白色的胸部以及由魚骨支撐的尖銳形狀緊身胸衣龙填。
男性與女性都非常奢侈胳泉,例如精美蕾絲,香水以及珠寶岩遗,亨利非常珍視他的珍珠耳環(huán)扇商。
亨利在法國宮廷點亮了樸素的西班牙人宿礁。
男人和女人都穿著如此拘泥呆板的花邊領(lǐng)钳吟,他們告訴侍者,他們看起來就像頂著一個約翰施洗的大盤子一樣窘拯。
他從波蘭帶回更豐滿的馬褲造型红且,被稱為威尼斯式或者波蘭式,同樣的還有以寶石與冠毛裝飾的小波蘭帽子涤姊。
當(dāng)他同30名年輕人一同穿過巴黎街道暇番,他們看起來就像意大利風(fēng)格的蓬塔羅人。
男士著裝如同女士思喊,反之亦然壁酬,甚至男士造型更吸引眼球,這顯示了亨利三世追求有趣恨课,新奇舆乔,快樂和天賦的胃口,同時這也是時尚的精髓剂公。