1200 - 1300
SOCIAL STATEMENTS
Clothing became more voluminous in the 13th century, and men's and women's garments followed the same changes in shape.
Tunic sleeves had tight lower arms, but more fabric around the armhole, and the surcoat (sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe staple.
Though cut were still simple and elegantly draped, head wear became more complex.
Women wore hairnets, or wimples (chin bands) and circlets around the head, and men wore small, round caps.
Beards went out; curled hair came in.
Romance poetry with its glamorous ideals of dress and behavior inspired women to walk gracefully with swaying hips or to hold a mantle so as to display a slim waist.
Fabrics were more widely available so the leisured and merchant classes could imitate noble fashions.
Such mimicry of their betters prompted litigation: laws were introduced to control what people at different social levels could wear.
Called sumptuary laws, these regulations were rarely effective.
SURVIVING MEDIEVAL CLOTHING
Very little complete medieval clothing has survived.
Some of the best examples date from the 13th century; one such find was of members of the Castilian royal family buried in tombs in the Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos,
Spain, dressed in royal garb.
One young prince's grave from 1275 revealed a laced aljuba (tunic), sideless surcoat (right), and a mantle.
The set of matching clothes, called a "robe," is of the finest Moorish silk and gold samite woven with the royal coats of arms of the kingdoms of Castile and leon.
The finds confirm the accuracy of contemporary illuminations and their usefulness as historical records.
The images also bring written descriptions of noble finery to life.
-- 《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》
公元1200年 - 1300年
社會報告
十三世紀(jì)服裝變得更加豐富，男裝與女裝的廓形也同樣發(fā)生變化。
袍子袖在下手臂處收緊赁濒，袖籠周圍增加更多面料，與外衣（無袖長炮罩衫）開始成為當(dāng)時衣櫥的主角。
雖然剪裁仍舊簡單與優(yōu)雅垂順，但頭部裝飾變得復(fù)雜起來。
女性佩戴發(fā)網(wǎng)，或者包頭巾（下巴包裹帶）以及頭部圓環(huán)疑枯，男性則佩戴小圓帽子。
胡須不再流行灸叼，卷發(fā)成為時尚神汹。
浪漫詩人與其迷人的理想裝束和行為，激發(fā)了女性搖動臀部優(yōu)雅行走古今，或者束起斗篷顯示細長的腰部屁魏。
面料可用范圍更廣了，所以閑暇與商人階層可以模仿貴族的時尚捉腥。
這些模仿招來了控訴：以法律來控制不同階層的人們可以穿什么氓拼。
這項稱之為禁奢令的法令，卻很少起效果抵碟。
中世紀(jì)服裝留存
很少有完整的中世紀(jì)服裝幸存下來桃漾。
有一些最好的樣板來自十三世紀(jì)；例如一個被發(fā)現(xiàn)是卡斯蒂利亞皇室的成員棺木拟逮，被埋葬在布爾戈斯的拉斯烏埃爾加斯修道院撬统。
西班牙，皇家裝扮敦迄。
一位年輕王子的墳?zāi)箒碜?275年恋追，它展現(xiàn)了一件帶綁帶的aljuba長袍，無側(cè)邊外衣與斗篷罚屋。
其中一件配套的服裝苦囱，叫做“robe法衣“，它是由卡斯蒂利亞-萊昂王國最上乘的摩爾絲綢與金色錦繡織成的帶袖皇家外套脾猛。
這些發(fā)現(xiàn)證實了當(dāng)代圖案花飾的準(zhǔn)確性撕彤，以及它們作為歷史記錄的價值。
這些畫面同時帶來了對皇家優(yōu)雅裝飾生活的書面描述猛拴。
