Kangaamiut village, in Greenland, is now more accessible thanks to affordable airfares? / Simon Calder
Kangaamiut村椒楣，格陵蘭锣险，幸虧負擔得起的機票價格措拇，終于可以進入了/ Simon Calder（本文作者）
The world's biggest island is now more accessible than ever, thanks to more affordable flights. Simon Calder explores a country like nowhere else on Earth.
這座世界最大的島嶼秒际，現(xiàn)在比以往任何時候都容易進入了赫模。幸虧優(yōu)惠了的航班树肃。Simon Calder在這個地球上其他地方不會有的鄉(xiāng)村開始了他的探幽之旅。
Greenland: twinned with Australia.? 格陵蘭：澳大利亞的“翻版”
Technically, that's not true. But it should be.
從法律意義上來說瀑罗，這個說法當然是不正確的胸嘴。但是，真的應該是廓脆。
The similarities go deep. Both have a coastal fringe wrapping around a vast emptiness, best appreciated from on high — between the UK and Vancouver, or from Singapore to Sydney. Each country has an aboriginal population with deep traditions, whose roots extend far further back than the very recent colonies established by Europeans.
澳大利亞與格陵蘭有深入的相似性筛谚。兩者都有一條海岸線環(huán)繞著一個巨大的廣袤腹地，高空俯瞰的美景——從英國到溫哥華之間停忿，或者從新加坡到悉尼之間驾讲。兩國都有一個傳統(tǒng)深厚的土著民族，土著民族的足跡可以追溯回遙遠的過去席赂，遠遠早于近代歐洲人的殖民統(tǒng)治者吮铭。
Some say that Australia is the world’s biggest island, but if you subscribe to the idea that it’s actually a continent, then Greenland takes the title.
有人說，澳大利亞是世界上最大的島嶼颅停，但是如果同意澳大利亞實際上是一個大陸的觀點谓晌，那么，格陵蘭就是世界上最大的島嶼了癞揉。
[Tourists at the ice sheet in Greenland (Simon Calder) 面對格陵蘭冰蓋的旅客]
And both have a difficult relationship with the “mother country”: Australia with Britain, and Greenland with Denmark. Indeed, Greenland is the country that went into the cold, voting in 1982 to leave the EU. But the monarch in Copenhagen is Greenland’s head of state, and the Danish krone is the national currency.
兩國都與自己“宗主國”有著復雜的關系纸肉。澳大利亞與英國，格陵蘭與丹麥喊熟。的確柏肪，格陵蘭是一個“冷”靜的國家，1982年通過投票退出了歐盟芥牌。但是烦味，哥本哈根的君主是格陵蘭的統(tǒng)治者，丹麥克朗是格陵蘭的國家貨幣壁拉。
Having checked both locations, I can say with confidence that Australia is warmer and sunnier. Greenland begins where Shetland ends, at around 60 degrees north, and extends to just seven degrees short of the?North Pole.
調查過兩國的位置谬俄，我可以自信地說，澳大利亞要溫暖得多弃理，更加陽光燦爛溃论。格陵蘭島起于設得蘭群島（英國蘇格蘭東北部一郡）的終端，從大約北緯60度案铺，延伸向北蔬芥，差7度到北極點梆靖。
Bizarrely, Australia has also traditionally been cheaper to reach despite being five times further away than Greenland, with the return airfare for the past 25 years or so starting at around ￡600 return to the main cities for deeply off-peak travel. Every time I’ve looked, Greenland has been a minimum of ￡850.
離奇的是，到澳大利亞比到格陵蘭島要遠5倍的距離笔诵，但是去澳大利亞卻是更便宜返吻。過去25年里，若論雙程飛行乎婿，或者600英鎊就可以啟動包含非高峰階段的來回機票以及一些主要城市的深度游测僵，每一次我都注意一下，到格陵蘭的最低價格是850英鎊谢翎。
But finally, thanks to some creative pricing by the national airline, reaching Greenland is no longer pricier than Perth.
但是捍靠，最終，幸虧國家航空提供了創(chuàng)新定價森逮，去格陵蘭再也不比去珀斯價格高了榨婆。
Looking ahead to next midsummer, the lowest return fare from Copenhagen on the excellent Airbus A330 of Air Greenland is ￡540, with connections from the UK to the Danish capital another ￡60 or so. It offers proper long-haul standards even though the longest flight on the network is barely over four hours. There’s lots of legroom and impressive inflight entertainment — including Coldplay，appropriately?—— and for inflight reading, Suluk (Greenlandic for “wing”).
預計到下一個夏季褒侧，從哥本哈根乘坐格陵蘭航空公司的A330航班良风，雙程費用將是540英鎊，再加上從英國到丹麥首都的60英鎊花費闷供。這是一個正常的長途旅行規(guī)格，雖然網(wǎng)上顯示的最長的飛行航班很少有超過四小時的歪脏。飛機上空間寬敞疑俭，設施良好，包括“冷娛樂”——我其實要說的是“酷玩樂隊”的音樂婿失，當然了——機上的閱讀物《Suluk》（格陵蘭語“翅膀”的意思）
The inflight magazine for a national carrier can tell you a lot about the country. Air Greenland’s publication is the only one I have seen with advertisements for quad bike repairs.
這本國際航空行程中的機上雜志可以告訴你很多關于這個國家的事情钞艇。格陵蘭航空公司的這個出版物是我唯一看到的刊登摩托車維修廣告的飛機雜志。
The editorial is intriguing, too. One feature was about a new issue of Greenland stamps featuring local delicacies: fish heads and raw whale skin. There’s even an Inuit recipe page, featuring this month a whale in its own blubber. (“Cut the whale meat into slices, not so thin that they risk getting dry, and place them on the stone with the melted whale blubber.")
雜志編輯得也很有趣豪硅。有一個內容是關于最新發(fā)行的格陵蘭郵票香璃，介紹的是格陵蘭當?shù)丶央龋呼~頭和生鯨魚皮。雜志上甚至還配上因紐特人的食譜舟误，介紹說，這個月鯨魚會有鯨油姻乓。（食譜上說：把鯨魚皮切成片嵌溢，不要切得太薄，以防變干蹋岩，把它們放在石頭上赖草，讓鯨油融化）
You may, of course, feel that the world’s biggest mammal needs to be protected rather than devoured, but in so precarious a land the whale has long been seen as salvation.
Nature has not been generous to Greenland. There are just seven terrestrial mammals: the stoat and its prey, the lemming, the Arctic fox and the Arctic hare, the caribou, the musk ox and the polar bear.
你可能自然地以為，這個世界上最大的哺乳動物應該被保護剪个，而不是被吃掉秧骑。但是，在這個生存艱險的島上，鯨魚已經(jīng)長期被視為救星乎折。
Those creatures, like the human population, endure on the coastal fringes. Most of Greenland is an ice sheet, a geographical feature almost inconceivable in its scale.
那些生物绒疗，就像人類，常期生活在海岸邊骂澄。大部分的格陵蘭是一個冰蓋吓蘑，顯示著不可思議的神奇地理特征。
The bottom layer fell as snow more than 100,000 years ago. It contains one-11th of the world’s freshwater. The weight of all that frozen water depresses the surface by 1,000 feet below sea level; were it to melt, oceans around the world could rise by perhaps 20 feet.
最底層覆蓋著10萬年以前的積雪坟冲，儲存著世界上1/11的淡水磨镶。冰塊的重量使它們沉在海平面1000英尺以下；如果這些冰塊融化了健提，世界的海平面可能要提升20英尺琳猫。
You can wonder at such statistics as you fly across the ice sheet (and arguably contribute to the warming of the planet).
當你飛過這些冰面的時候，你可能對這些統(tǒng)計數(shù)字感到好奇（毫無疑問私痹，飛行增進了地球變暖）
A nation nine times the size of Britain is divided into just four regions, whose names in Greenlandic may make you shiver. The area around Cape Farewell, on the tip of Greenland’s icy tongue, is known as Kujalleq (“South"); Sermersooq ("Much Ice") is the region around the capital Nuuk; Qeqqata ("Centre") runs from north of the capital along the Davis Strait; and the far north-west is known as Qaasuitsup, meaning ”Darkness”.
這個四倍與英國的地方脐嫂，分成了四個地區(qū)。四個地區(qū)的格陵蘭名稱可以讓你發(fā)抖侄榴。圍繞費爾韋爾海角雹锣，在格陵蘭冰舌的尖端，被稱為“Kujalleq”（格陵蘭語中“南邊”的意思）癞蚕；“Sermersooq”（格陵蘭語中“很多冰”的意思）是首都努克（Nuuk）地區(qū)蕊爵；“Qeqqata”（格陵蘭語中“中心”的意思）從首都北延伸到戴維斯海峽（Davis Strait，在加拿大巴芬島和格陵蘭島之間的海峽）桦山；最西北的地帶稱為“Qaasuitsup”攒射，意思是“黑暗”。
Most of Greenland’s population lives on the western coast, facing across to Canada, and enjoy the most corrugated coastline in the world: for a fjord focus, the island is even better than Norway.
大多數(shù)的格陵蘭人口住在西岸恒水，正對著加拿大会放，享有世界上最長的波狀海岸線：作為海灣，這個島甚至優(yōu)于挪威钉凌。
Kangerlussuaq where the plane touches down, is at the head of the largest incision of all. Indeed, Kangerlussuaq? means “big fjord”. It curves around the airport and feels like a disused military base, which is what it mostly is.
Kangerlussuaq咧最，飛機著陸地，是所有飛機到此后的首要分散地御雕。事實上矢沿，Kangerlussuaq的意思就是“大海灣”。它弧線型繞著飛機場酸纲，感覺就像一個廢棄了的軍事基地捣鲸，而事實上它確實曾經(jīng)是。
The American military boosted the population of Greenland by around one-fifth when they set up a series of bases for the DEW (“distant early warning”) line in preparation for nuclear Armageddon. In the conflict between the US and the USSR, this was the place that?put the “cold” in?Cold War.
美國軍隊以1/50的比例提高了格陵蘭的人口的數(shù)量闽坡。他們在這里建立了一系列遠程雷達預警基地栽惶，目的是為核世界末日戰(zhàn)爭做準備愁溜。在美國和前蘇聯(lián)的沖突中，這是為冷戰(zhàn)加入“冷料”的地方外厂。
Since the US military went home, the town has diversified into tourism. A local guide with aa 4x4 will drive you out to the ice sheet; this is the place with easiest access to the frozen heart of Greenland. The first sight, though, as you drive out on a dusty track, is a crashed US warplane, its metallic entrails scattered across the rock beside the road.
美國軍隊回國后冕象，這個城市開始了旅游業(yè)務的多種經(jīng)營。當?shù)氐膶в螘{駛4x4帶你去冰蓋酣衷，這是進入格陵蘭冰川腹地的最容易的進入口交惯。當你在塵土飛揚的路上行駛的時候，最先看到的是穿仪，會是一架墜毀的美國軍用飛機席爽，金屬零件就散落路邊礁石上。
Man is enfeebled in such a wild, desolate and extreme place. The landscape, sculpted over 60 million years since Greenland broke away from the North American tectonic place, is a demonstration of nature’s might.
在這樣偏遠的啊片、荒涼的和極端的地方只锻，人類顯得很弱小。這里的地貌是在格陵蘭島從北美地理板塊分裂后形成的紫谷，已經(jīng)超過6000萬年（60 million）齐饮，是大自然力量的一個代表作。
Ancient rocks, twisted and jagged, tell of the earth’s restlessness, while the edge of the ice sheet creaks and shudders. And yet this is not an entirely alien environment: tough grasses soften your steps, while in the distance musk ox forage beside a river filled by melting ice.
古老的巖石笤昨，蜿蜒崎嶇祖驱，嶙峋交錯，伴隨著冰蓋吱嘎噼啪和震動戰(zhàn)栗瞒窒，仿佛在訴說著世界的焦躁不安捺僻。這還不是全部的奇觀異景：頑強生存的雜草，遠處有麝牛正在融化的冰水河邊搜尋食物，這些情景讓你腳步緩慢下來。
The scene may leave you breathless——as will the exercise of pronouncing the town’s name correctly. The “rl” in the middle of Kangerlussuaq requires your mouth to adopt the position for the sound of a short “l(fā)” and then exhale: a breathy “thwl” is the best I can get to the sound. To master the "q" at the end I shall refer you to Greenlandic for Travelers by Birgitte Hertling, which recommends this easy procedure: “Just as one might create air pressure to hold a gargle liquid from running down one’s throat before gargling, press, hold and then release the air to produce this special throat sound.”
這個景象也許讓你喘不過氣來——就像你試著想正確讀出這個城市名稱的發(fā)音時的感受芳来。“Kangerlussuaq”中間的“rl”糕簿，需要你的發(fā)出短的“l(fā)”的聲音，然后呼氣：一個帶氣息音的“thwl”是我能做到的最佳結果了。要掌握結尾的“q”的發(fā)音，我要向你推薦Birgitte Hertling著的《旅游用格陵蘭語》一書术奖，書中介紹了“q”的簡易發(fā)音過程：“就像你口里含著漱口水時，利用氣壓的作用讓漱口水在喉嚨里來回的運動轻绞，加壓腰耙，控制，然后放松铲球，體會這個過程，才能發(fā)出這個特殊的喉音”晰赞。
Time to leave town. To explore more widely, you need either a boat or a plane. Some hardy yachties sail into the big fjord, as do expedition ships. Alternatively Air Greenland has a fleet of 16 helicopters, augmented by Dash-8 propellor planes. The latter aircraft fly as frequently as the weather allows to the capital, Nuuk - pronounced as in “nuke”.??
離開這個城市的時間到了稼病。要想進行更深廣的探索选侨，你需要船或者飛機。有的船艇可以駛入大海灣然走，也有考察船援制。或者芍瑞，格陵蘭有16架直升飛機晨仑，Dash-8螺旋槳飛機。只要天氣允許拆檬，Dash-8螺旋槳飛機頻繁飛往首都努克（Nuuk）洪己。
“An Arctic metropolis,” claims the tourist board of Nuuk. It looks like no other capital city I have seen, scattered across a headland that juts out from the entrance of a complex of fjords. One in four of Greenland’s entire population of 60,000 people lives here. A Danish pastor, Hans Egede, founded the settlement in 1728, and a huddle of cottages from that era still remains.
“這是一個北極大都會”，努克旅游局這樣介紹努克竟贯。它不像我見過的任何一個首都城市答捕。散落建在從一個復雜的峽灣進口處伸出的海峽口。6萬格陵蘭人的四分之一居住在努克屑那。Hans Egede在1728年在這里建立了定居點拱镐，那個年代的狹小的村舍仍然有保留下來的。
But the modern town strikes me as a good definition of the word “bleak”, with a bitter breeze blowing down a glum main thoroughfare. The national museum, excellent though it is, actually reinforces the notion that this is a land unfit for human habitation. The early settlers depended on driftwood from northern Siberia, while for metal they had to rely on outer space — scraping iron from meteorites that had fallen in the far north-west of the nation.
但現(xiàn)代的城市給我的印象持际，則是一個對“單調”這個詞的很好的定義沃琅，刺骨的風吹著一條沉悶的主干道。國家博物館雖然非常棒蜘欲，但它實際上卻也強化了一個概念：這是一個不適合人類居住的地方益眉。早期的定居者靠著來自西伯利亞北部的浮木，而對于金屬他們不得不依賴于外層空間——從遙遠的西北方向降落的隕石的碎鐵片芒填。
A few fjords north of Nuuk, the fishing village of Kangaamiut takes you closer to the soul of Greenland. It is a deliciously colourful place, with primary-painted cottages tumbling down to the water's edge. The Arctic Umiaq Line, the ferry lifeline along Greenland’s coast since 1774, calls here with 21st-century essentials.
Yet evidence around the village provides an insight into heroic endurance on the edge of an unforgiving land. Down at the harbour, the water turns scarlet as a seal is skinned. Drying cod dangles from hooks nailed to walls of cottages.
努克北面的幾個小海角呜叫，是叫Kangaamiut的小漁村，這里可以讓你更貼近格陵蘭的精髓所在殿衰。這是一個美妙的色彩豐富的地方朱庆，有倒塌在水邊的依然保留著古舊顏色外墻的農舍，北極木架蒙皮船闷祥，沿著格陵蘭海岸有著從1774年起就在那里的渡口救生索娱颊，與21世紀的各種要素交相輝映。
村莊周圍各種跡象仍然展示著在這塊不宜居住的土地上史詩般的忍耐力凯砍。港口下面箱硕，被掉皮的海豹的血把水面染成紅色。風干的鱈魚懸掛在農舍墻上的鉤子上悟衩。
Yet even with the daily struggle for survival, there is room for the spirits to soar. Heavenly voices of a local choir drift from the tiny church, bestowing a delicacy at odds with the landscape.
是的剧罩，即使每天都為生存在戰(zhàn)斗，這里仍然有靈魂提升的空間座泳。當?shù)爻姲嗟氖ド竦穆曇魪男〗烫美镲h蕩出來惠昔，給偏僻奇異的環(huán)境增添了一絲美妙幕与。
Climb beyond the chapel, by way of the local dump, complete with a few rusting quad bikes. You reach a summit that reveals a magnificent congregation of land and sea; the best possible conclusion to a journey along the raw edge of the world.
走過小教堂，往高處走镇防，路上是當?shù)氐睦鴪隼裁逊胖鴰纵v生銹的摩托車。你到達頂點時来氧，島子和大海的風景盡收眼底诫给。這是你在沿著世界邊緣的旅途中能夠得到的最好的結束。
【注1】因為自己住在格陵蘭啦扬，很想給朋友們介紹一下這個偏遠地方的風貌風情等中狂。可惜我沒有好的攝影設備和技術考传，自己的生活也比較單調吃型。所以，就想翻譯些英語資料僚楞。如果配圖勤晚，一般也會取自原文配圖或者可能需要從網(wǎng)上搜索。譯文和配圖并不做商業(yè)用途泉褐。所以如果圖片來自哪位網(wǎng)友赐写，請告知，也請諒解膜赃。
【注2】我試著翻譯挺邀，學習階段。發(fā)到網(wǎng)上跳座，同時也為了尋求得到翻譯上的指教端铛。先致謝！
希望得到您的幫助和支持疲眷。
（文中插圖選自原文配圖）
