DESIGNER
PAUL POITET
Known as Le Magnifique in Paris and the King of Fashion in the US, Poiret (1879 - 1944) was said by The New Yorker (1927) to have “helped to change the modern retina.”
This brew of descriptions underlines three aspects of the man who dominated Parisian and international fashion in the 1910s — a theatrical orientalism, a new talent for branding and promotion, and a blending of clothes with avant-garde art.
Poiret started auspiciously, working for two leading turn-of-the-century maisons: Jacques Doucet, then House of Worth.
When he opened his own Parisian future house around 1903, he set about overturning Belle Epoque fashion values.
DRAPING BY DESIGN
With a new silhouette came Poiret’s fresh take on structuring garments.
He replaced classic 19th-century pattern-dependent tailoring with an inspired draping of fabric and let garments hang from the shoulders.
Between 1906 and World War I Poiret experimented with bold shapes inspired by a more natural female form and his own take on oriental luxury.
FUSING FASHION, THEATER, AND ART
A sense of theater was integral to Poiret’s work, the oriental costumes of the Ballets Russes in productions such as Scheherazade (1910) being a major influence.
Poiret’s lampshade tunic appeared in his costume designs for an orientalist play called Le Minaret.
設(shè)計(jì)師
保羅 波烈
被稱為巴黎之星與美國(guó)時(shí)尚之王的Poiret波烈（1879-1944年）炊琉，被紐約客（1927年）稱作是“改變現(xiàn)代視覺(jué)感官的人”午磁。
這樣的評(píng)價(jià)強(qiáng)調(diào)了二十世紀(jì)10年代主導(dǎo)巴黎與國(guó)際時(shí)尚人士的三個(gè)方面 -- 一種戲劇性的東方風(fēng)格示绊，一種懂得品牌推廣的新才華绿贞，以及將前衛(wèi)藝術(shù)與服飾融合的能力挑围。
波烈開始得非常順利哩掺，他為兩個(gè)世紀(jì)之交時(shí)最先鋒的時(shí)裝屋工作，Jaques Doucet倚聚，之后是Worth時(shí)裝屋漾橙。
1903年左右他開設(shè)了自己的巴黎時(shí)裝屋携添，并且推翻了Belle Epoque的時(shí)尚價(jià)值觀括荡。
立裁
伴隨著波烈結(jié)構(gòu)服裝到來(lái)的一種新的輪廓寸潦。
他替換了19世紀(jì)經(jīng)典的模版剪裁桶错，而以懸垂面料為靈感漫谷，將衣服掛在衣肩上桃移。
1906年到第一次世界大戰(zhàn)之間屋匕，波烈從一種更自然的女性形態(tài)中獲得靈感，實(shí)驗(yàn)了許多大膽的形狀與屬于他個(gè)人的東方奢華風(fēng)格借杰。
融合時(shí)尚过吻，舞臺(tái)與藝術(shù)
劇院造型是波烈工作的一部分，東方服飾在俄羅斯芭蕾舞作品蔗衡，如Scheherazade（1910年）中起主要影響纤虽。
波烈的燈罩長(zhǎng)袍出現(xiàn)在他的戲服設(shè)計(jì)中，是一部叫做Le Minaret的東方劇绞惦。
