1840 - 1900
FORMAL WEAR FOR MEN
Gentlemen’s formal dress became more somber in shape and tone in the mid-19th century.
The three-piece suit emerged in the 1860s, although it was still some years off becoming a uniform of business respectability.
Fibers for all garments were still natural, but advanced machinery made more intricate weaves and color combinations possible.
The sewing machine helped the ready-made trade, while tailors’ manuals with patterns for varying styles of coat proliferated.
In leisurewear there were color combinations and contrasts to delight: embroidered accessories, an intriguing glimpse of luxurious lining fabric, or a jaunty pair o striped, checked, or plaid trousers.
Stylish items of day wear — top hat, cravat, and pantaloons — became reserved for formal wear, while bowler hats and ties supplanted them for day.
EXOTIC LEISUREWEAR
While formal wear was understated, men could express themselves with more individuality and color when off duty.
They took the opportunity to show off materials and garments imported from abroad or gathered on travels, whether out and about or indoors.
Padded robes were ideal for the businessman relaxing at home, worn over shirt and suit pants or (right) a pair of matching pajamas called mama trousers.
This striped robe was woven in India and features an Indian both (pinecone) motif repeat.
A smoking cap with tassel and slip-on leather slippers complete the exotic ensemble.
1840 - 1900
男士正裝
十九世紀(jì)中期醉鳖,紳士的正式穿著在外形與色調(diào)上更顯沉重了潜支。
西服三件套在十九世紀(jì)60年代出現(xiàn)侦锯,雖然離它正式成為商務(wù)穿著還有一些年份藕帜。
所有的服飾纖維仍舊是自然纖維,但先進(jìn)的機(jī)器已經(jīng)可以制作出更復(fù)雜的編織與色彩混合冠句。
縫紉機(jī)幫助成衣貿(mào)易成為可能寂屏,而為展示不同外套款式而制作的縫紉手冊也越來越多了。
而休閑服則強(qiáng)調(diào)色彩的組合與對比八秃,其中包括繡花配件,豪華襯里肉盹,或者一條可愛的條紋昔驱,格子花呢休閑褲。
日常著裝中 — 帽子上忍,領(lǐng)結(jié)與男士馬褲被圓頂高帽與領(lǐng)帶則被取代了骤肛。
異國休閑服
正式服裝是低調(diào)的,男性可在非正式的場合表現(xiàn)出更多個(gè)性與色彩窍蓝。
他們乘著這個(gè)機(jī)會展示從國外進(jìn)口或者旅行收集的面料與服裝腋颠,無論室內(nèi)還是室外。
浴袍是商務(wù)人士在家放松時(shí)的一種打扮吓笙,大襯衣搭配同款的褲子淑玫,或者一套睡衣套裝。
條紋長袍是在印度編織的面睛,并有印度特色的重復(fù)圖案絮蒿。
一頂帶流蘇的吸煙帽和一雙皮質(zhì)船鞋完成了整套異國情調(diào)的搭配。