20170714 為你的衣櫥打造色彩展板 Developing a Colour Palette for your Wardrobe

https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2013/05/23/developing-a-colour-palette-for-your-wardrobe/

Developing a Colour Palette for your Wardrobe

為你的衣櫥打造色彩展板

Next to thesilhouettesandtexturesyou choose, the colours of your wardrobe and how you mix them are one of the most defining features of your own personal style. In previous posts I’ve talked a lot about finding the rightdistributionof all the different elements that make up your wardrobe, but I feel that colour deserves a special mention. As with all things wardrobe building, the tricky aspect about selecting the right colour palette is figuring out a way to combine form with function or, in other words, utilizing colour to shape a coherent overall look that expresses your aesthetic ideals (form) through a set of clothes that suit your lifestyle and are bothversatileand practical (function).

你選擇了款式和材質后旭旭,你個人風格限定因素中最重要之一就是你的個人風格谎脯。在過去的貼子里,我已經討論了許多關于打造衣櫥的不同元素持寄,但是我覺得顏色值得特別關注源梭。對于打造衣櫥的所有事項中,選擇顏色展板最難的一點是找打一種方式將形式form和功能function結合在一起稍味,也就是說废麻,通過一些列適合你生活方式、通用versatile又實用的衣服(功能性function)模庐,來打造一個整體的風格脑溢,從而表達你對于美的理解(形式form)。

Below you will find ablueprintfor developing a colour palette for your wardrobe. As always, feel free to mold it to your own creative process and needs.?I will explain the steps by creating an example seasonal capsule wardrobe, but the general method will also work on a smaller scale, e.g. for planning a travel wardrobe or a single outfit. If you just generally want to become more aware of your preferences and colour style, the first couple of steps will help you define a colourhierarchythat you can then use to tweak your current wardrobe or as a guide for future?purchases.

下面你將會找到建立一個衣櫥顏色展板的計劃圖赖欣,你可以按照你個人的創(chuàng)造和需求來修改它屑彻。我通過一個季節(jié)膠囊衣櫥的例子來解釋這個步驟,這種通用的方法也適用于小規(guī)模的搭配顶吮,例如計劃旅行衣櫥或單件搭配社牲。如果你只想對自己的偏好和顏色風格更加了解,前面的幾步會幫助你定義一個顏色層次hierarchy悴了,你可以使用它來提升你現有的衣櫥或者指導你未來的服裝采購搏恤。

form 形式

Within any visual concept, colour is perhaps the single most important factor to consider, simply because it has the ability toinstantlytrigger amood, anemotion, an association to a culture or a certainera. In one of my favourite style books ‘The Fashion File’, Mad Men’s costume[k?stju?m]

designer Janie Bryant writes about her thought process for giving each character's wardrobe a verydistinctcolour palette to enforce their personality, history andaspirations. A good example are the three lading ladies of the first seasons: Joan, Peggy and Betty. Joan almost exclusively wears jewel?[?d?u?l] tones, deep saturated shades of blue, purple and forest green, to emphasize herbold,headstrongqueen bee personality. Peggy’s favourite colour on the other hand is a hot shade ofmustardto show her (initial) innocence andfrumpiness, whereas Betty’s wardrobe featured lots ofpastel?[p??stel]shades to represent the classic 60s suburban[s?'b?b?n]dream.

在所有視覺概念中,色彩可能是需要考慮的最重要的單個因素湃交,這是由于色彩能夠立刻觸發(fā)一種氣氛熟空、一種情緒派昧,以及立刻聯想到一種文化或一個特定的時代印荔。在我最喜歡的的時尚書籍“時尚文件”中逊脯,MASMEN的服裝設計師寫了關于她是如何考慮為每一個角色的衣櫥設計一個獨特的顏色展板來增強他們的個性墅拭、歷史和愿望毙芜。一個好的例子在第一季中三個女性样刷,Joan總是穿得珠光寶氣觅捆,飽和度高的藍色桶略、紫色和深綠色,用來強調她的果斷的挨摸、剛愎自用的女王氣質孩革。Peggy最喜歡的顏色則是暖的深黃色,來顯示她與生俱來的天真和邋遢得运,然而Betty的衣櫥特點是很多淡淡的顏色膝蜈,來顯示經典的60年代田園夢。

Although many associations with specific colours are universal to an extent, your culture and past experiences will have provided you with your own unique aesthetic ideals that amongst a whole array of different elements also include a preference for a certain colour palette. My favourite method for revealing that preference, your unique colour style, is working with a good old mood board: collecting everything that inspires you and editing that collection like a sculpture, removing elements that no longer speak to you bit by bit and adding more of what you like, until it is perfect. At the beginning, your style might still be relatively undefined but overtime, as you train your eye, your aesthetic preferences will become more and more apparent until a coherent themecrystallizes. If you look closely, you can spot this evolution on many?pinterest boards, where people’s first pins are often quite scattered but eventuallyconvergeand follow a single style. Sometimes, revealing your colour style is more aboutsubtractingthan anything else: Many people already have a preference for colours that has remained relatively stable since childhood, but might have adjusted that preference according to current trends or watered it down with other random colours they found in the shops. In that case, the key is to consciouslydefinethese preferences andextractany irritators that ultimately justdistract fromthe essence of your colour style.

雖然許多特定顏色的聯系從某種程度上講是普適的熔掺,但是你的文化和過去的經驗會給你提供一些獨特的美學理念彬檀,同樣也包括對某個色彩展板的偏好。我最喜歡的揭示這種偏好(你獨特的顏色風格)方法是去找一個最喜歡的“情緒展板”:搜集你喜歡的所有東西瞬女,像雕塑一樣對這些東西編輯窍帝,逐步刪除那些已經不再有感覺的東西,直到完美诽偷。在最初坤学,你的風格可能相對不明確,當你逐步訓練你的眼睛报慕,你的美學風格偏好將會變得越來越明顯深浮,到最后一個連續(xù)的主題就會被精煉出來。如果你仔細看眠冈,你可以在許多風格板中發(fā)現這種進化飞苇,人們最初的pin通常很散,但是最后都會都會匯聚和遵循一個風格蜗顽。有時布卡,揭示你的顏色風格最重要的是減法,許多人從還孩提時期就有一個相對穩(wěn)定的色彩偏好雇盖,但是可能會根據流行趨勢進行調整忿等,或者根據他們在商場里隨機添加的顏色增加。關鍵是不斷發(fā)現這些偏好崔挖,并去除哪些和你顏色風格不符的東西贸街。

Your colour style is likely to be overarching in the sense that it will influence not only your wardrobe choices but also many other lifestyle areas such as your living space. However, your specific preferences may well vary slightly for different contexts, for example between seasons. For the following exercise it’s important to first choose the exact context you want to create a colour palette for, whether that is your general personal style, a single outfit or your summer capsule wardrobe.

從某種意義上來講你的色彩風格是跨越的,它不僅影響到你的衣櫥選擇狸相,還有生活中的其他方面例如居住空間薛匪。然而,對于不同的場景脓鹃,你的特定偏好可能會略有不同逸尖,例如不同季節(jié)之間的偏好。對于下面的聯系,很重要的一點是首先選擇你想要建立色彩展板的一個特定場景冷溶,例如:你的通用個人風格渐白,選擇一套搭配尊浓,或者你的夏季衣櫥逞频。

Exercise練習

Once you have picked your context, start by collecting a ton of images with colours that inspire you in some way in regard to your context. Go through all your pinterest boards and inspiration folders and organise everything in one place, digital or physical.Even ifyou are developing a colour scheme for you wardrobe, you absolutely do not have to limit your search to pictures of outfits. Focus solely on the colours of an image and feel free to pick landscapes, objects, abstract things, animals or food. I created two separate boards to use as examples for this post, one with a cooler theme and one with warmer, more saturated colours, you can check them outhereandhere. Once you have a set of images, inspect it from far away, look for themes and pick out the main shades. You can do this by simply choosing your own descriptions of colours or using animage?Colour pickerto get the exact shades. Be asspecificorgeneralin your colour descriptions as you want (grey, light grey, silver, charcoal....), and include variations of similar colours if they are a dominant theme in your collection. I created the mood board at the top of this post as an example for colours that inspire me in regard to my summer wardrobe and picked out the nine shades below. Of course any set of pictures, including my example, is going to consist?of a very high number of individual shades, so the key here is really to focus on the ‘big picture’ and pick out the 6-10 mostdominantcolours.

一旦你挑了場景,開始選擇那些和你場景相關的栋齿,能讓你有感覺的圖片苗胀,檢查你所有的拼趣板、靈感文件夾瓦堵,把所有東西匯總到一起基协,無論是數字形式的還是實物形式的。即使你在打造自己的衣櫥色彩框架菇用,你也完全不必把你找的照片限定在僅僅是服裝上澜驮,把關注點放在照片的顏色上,隨意選擇風景照惋鸥、物體杂穷、抽象畫,動物或實物卦绣。為了這個帖子耐量,我建立了兩個展板作為例子,一個是冷色主題滤港,一個是暖色廊蜒、飽和度更強的主題,你可以看看這個兩個展板溅漾。當你有了一套圖片山叮,從遠處檢查它,找找主題添履,跳出主要的顏色聘芜。你可以通過簡單選擇自己描述一下顏色,或者使用顏色抓取器來抓取這些顏色缝龄。你的色彩描述可以精確或粗略(如灰色汰现,亮灰色,銀色等)叔壤,如果一些列類似的顏色在你的選擇中是支配性主題瞎饲,應當描述出這些顏色間的差異。當然任何顏色炼绘,包括我的例子嗅战,都會包括許多單獨的顏色,所以關鍵是關注那些“大 顏色”,并選擇6-10個最主要的顏色驮捍。

function功能

If you followed the above exercise you will now be left with an unstructured colour palette, guided just by your visual preferences. The second step is to organise those colours into a coherent colour scheme that is both practical and versatile and can be applied to your ?current wardrobe. There are a lot of different ways to structure a colour palette, but my favourite method involves creating something like ahierarchyby separating colours into one of three groups: main colours, neutrals and accent colours.

如果你按照上面的方法做疟呐,你現在就會有一個依據你的視覺偏好形成的沒有框架的色板,第二步是將這些顏色組織成一個既實用又全能的色彩框架东且,它能夠應用在你現在的衣櫥里启具。有不同的方法來構建你的色板框架,但是我最喜歡的方法是珊泳,通過把顏色分成三組來創(chuàng)造層次感:主色調鲁冯,中性色和強調色。

To build your own hierarchy, go back to your list of <10 colours and think about how versatile each colour is and how big of a role you want it to play in your wardrobe. Then, assign each colour to one of these groups:

建立你自己的層次感色查,先要回到你的小于10種顏色的列表薯演,考慮一下每種顏色的通用性,以及你想讓它在你的衣櫥里起到怎樣的作用秧了。然后跨扮,把每種顏色放到下面三個組里。

Main colours: 3 - 4 主色調:3-4

Your main colours are the key ingredients of your colour palette. Look at the most dominant colours of yourmood boardand pick three to four shades that you feel best represent its overall feel, and that you can see yourself wearing a lot. I chose a soft blue, a light blue and a grey as the main colours for the example, because to me they bestconveythe overall cool-toned, lightvibeof the mood board. The main colours of my example are all relatively muted but they could just as easily be a bright yellow, pink andturquoiseor red,tealandnavy. If I was developing a colour palette based onthis mood board, my main colours would probably bepeach, warm medium pink and tomato red.

你的主色調是你顏色展板的關鍵要素验毡,看看你情緒板里最主要的顏色衡创,選擇三個或四個能夠最好表達它的整體感受的,以及你最常穿的米罚。例如我選擇一個柔和藍色钧汹、一個亮藍色和一個灰色作為主色調,因為對我而言他們最能夠表達情緒板的整體冷色調录择、亮的感覺拔莱。我的主色調都是相對柔和的,但是可以是亮黃色隘竭,粉色塘秦,松綠色或紅色,青色或深藍色动看。如果我根據這個情緒板來打造一個色彩展板尊剔,主要的顏色應當是杏色、暖中性粉和西紅柿紅菱皆。

Neutrals: 1 - 3 中性色1-3

The neutral shades in your colour palette are supposed to support and balance out your main and accent colours. Obvious choices for neutrals are white, black, grey, navy and sand, but you could also pick a muted light blue, as long as it goes with all other colours in your palette. In the example, I chose white and the dark grey from the top-middle picture. During the initial picture search it can sometimes be quite easy to get carried away and just focus on the ‘real’ colours, so if your mood board doesn’t include any neutrals, brainstorm a few possible shades and test them out by adding an image of those colours to your mix.

你色板里的中性色是用來支持和平衡你的主色調和強調色的须误,典型中性色包括白色、黑色仇轻、灰色京痢、海軍藍和沙色,但是你也可以選擇淺亮藍色篷店,只要它和你色板上的其他顏色和諧就行祭椰。在這個例子中,我從上面中間的照片中選擇了白色和暗灰色。在最初的圖片查找時方淤,有時很容易就被帶走钉赁,只關注那些“真正”的顏色。所以如果你的情緒板不包括任何中性色携茂,那就頭腦風暴你踩,想一些可能的顏色,并通過添加這些顏色的照片來檢測搭配是否合適邑蒋。

Accent colours: 2 - 5 強調色:2-5

Any colour that you picked out from your mood board but that you don’t feel should play a main role or could work as a neutralizer, makes a good accent colour. They are worn primarily with neutrals, or in small doses with your main colours. In my example, the accent colours are a lot more colourful than the other shades, however black or white could also be an accent colour, e.g. to combine with a brighter main colourfrom time to time.

任何你從情緒板中選擇的顏色姓蜂,如果你覺得它不適合作為主色調和中和色按厘,就可以當做一個好的強調色医吊。它們主要和中性色一起穿,或者小面積與主色調搭配逮京。在我的例子中卿堂,強調色比其他色彩更加斑斕,然而有時黑色和白色也可以當做強調色懒棉,用以搭配亮色的主色調草描。

how to use your colour palette如何使用顏色展板

If you just wanted to refine your overall colour style, you can stop here and use your colour palette as a general guide for building outfits or reorganising your wardrobe. However, if you set out to develop a colour palette for a capsule wardrobe, like in our example,?yourhierarchycomes into play after you have already chosen youruniformandproportionsand created a framework with rough item counts (after part ii). Check outthis postfor a full step-by-step guide on how to create a capsule wardrobe if this all sounds confusing. Once you have designed a structure of item categories (like the one below), you can start filling it in with your colour palette.

如果你想提煉你的整體色彩風格,你可以停下來使用你的色彩展板作為選擇服裝或者重新規(guī)劃衣櫥的通用指南策严。然而穗慕,如果你是打造一個膠囊衣櫥的色彩展板,就如同我們這個例子中展示的妻导。在你已經選擇了你的衣服類型和數量比例逛绵,建立了一個包含大致單品數量的框架后,你的配色層次就應該開始了倔韭。仔細看看這個條子术浪,里面詳細描述了如何建造一個膠囊衣櫥的步驟。一旦你已經列出了列表目錄寿酌,你就可以開始使用你的色彩展板來填充了胰苏。

Skirts 半裙- 5

Shorts短褲 - 5

Shirts 襯衣- 6

Tank tops 無袖背心- 8

Dresses 裙子- 3

Footwear襪子或鞋子 - 5

To get started, go through your closet and pick out every item that fits one of the colours in your palette. Then examine each item category separately (e.g. dresses, tank tops, etc.) and fill each slot either with an item you already own or by picking a colour from your palette. Pay attention to the overall weight you give to your main colours, neutrals and accents and play around with the distribution until you find one that reflects your colour palette well. For maximum versatility, assign each item category at least one neutral colour (two if possible).? Accent colours should make up about 25% of your capsule wardrobe items (not counting accessories) and it’s generally a good idea to reserve them for categories with lots of items (e.g. tops). Once you have distributed your neutrals and accent colours, fill in the rest with your main colours. To show you an example, I used the colour hierarchy we created in the previous steps to fill in a possible structure of a summer wardrobe. Each category includes two neutral items (white and dark grey), except for dresses because they can be worn on their own and thus have to be less mixable. I reserved accent colours for the larger categories (shirt and tank tops) and filled in the rest with an even distribution of the main colours.

首先,打開你的衣櫥醇疼,找到每一件符合你色彩展板上顏色的衣服硕并,然后檢查每一個條目(如裙子,無袖背心等)秧荆,然后把你的衣櫥中已經有的單品的顏色填上倔毙,也可以選擇你色彩盤上的顏色填上。注意你分配給主要顏色辰如、中性色和強調色的整體比重普监,調整比例分配,知道整個衣櫥顏色能夠反映你目前的色彩展板。為了使通用性最大化凯正,在每個類別中加入至少一個中性色(如果有可能的話兩件)毙玻。 強調色應當在你的衣櫥單品中占25%,有一個好辦法是在有很多件的單品中選幾件是強調色的(例如無袖背心)廊散,一旦你分配好了你的中性色和強調色桑滩,剩下的填入主色調,例如允睹,我使用上一步我們選出的顏色來天聰夏季易初可能的結構运准,每一個目錄包括兩見中心色單品(白色和黑灰色),除了裙子缭受,因為裙子通承舶模可以單穿,所以要少些混搭米者。我在大的類別(如襯衣和無袖背心)中加入了一些強調色韭畸,然后用主色調填充了剩余的位置。

Of course, things always get shuffled around in the end, but a rough plan like this always helps me to spot the gaps in my closet and ultimately leads to a better capsule wardrobe that is really in tune with my aesthetic preferences and mood of the season.

當然蔓搞,事情最后可能會反復胰丁,但是一個粗略的計劃通常會幫助我識別我實際衣櫥和理想衣櫥之間的鴻溝,最終幫助我打造更好的喂分、符合我美學偏好和季節(jié)心情的膠囊衣櫥锦庸。

Do you have a defined colour palette? Does it change with the seasons?

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