A LIFE OF LEISURE
The early 1900s was a time of contradiction: on one hand was rapid technological change, the rise of motorcars, and female emancipation; on the other, a golden glow of romantic, hedonistic nostalgia enjoyed by the leisured classes.
The latter view still defines the Edwardian era for many, and it was captured perfectly by contemporary fashions.
Edward VII’s love of extravagant pleasure set the age’s tone, with rounds of lavish balls, country-house parties, travel, and athletic pursuits.
England’s expanding middle classes, upwardly mobile due to the Industrial Revolution, aped this upper-class lifestyle: garden parties, tea on the terrace, picnics, regattas, the races—all requiring suitable outfits.
For women, pastel colors were de rigueur, as was sumptuous lace, mousse line de soie (gauzelike fabric), silk chiffon, tulle, crepe de Chine, ribbon trimmings, and any frilly, lacy detailing.
Huge hats bobbed with great feathers or silk flowers.
Long, wavy hair was fastened around pads for luxuriant fullness, and the parasol was an essential accessory.
The fashionable female shape, created by corsetry, was also luxuriant: a large, low, forward-thrust “monobosom,” a wasp waist, and full hips from which a bell-shaped skirt, narrower than Victorian styles, fell gracefully.
High necks and long sleeves were worn in daytime, with bodices and necklines infilled with lace or light fabric.
Male fashions served as a simple, sober foil.
Frock and morning coats were joined by lounge suits worn with crisp collar and cuffs, hats, and umbrella or cane.
閑暇生活
二十世紀早期是一個矛盾的時期:一方面技術在迅速變革,摩托車激增,女性解放;另一方面锋谐,浪漫與享樂主義懷舊風的吹拂著閑暇階層喷舀。
后者的觀點為許多人定義了愛德華時代持痰,它完美捕捉了當時的時尚風格修陡。
愛德華七世因為對奢華娛樂的熱愛而為這個時代設立了基調,闊氣的舞會善玫,鄉(xiāng)村別墅派對水援,旅行以及對于運動的追求。
英格蘭不斷擴展的中產階層向上流動都基于工業(yè)革命之上茅郎,從而引發(fā)的高端生活方式有:花園派對蜗元,陽臺茶會,野餐系冗,賽馬 — 而這些活動都需要合適的服飾裝備奕扣。
對女性來說,柔和色彩是必須的掌敬,如同華麗花邊惯豆,真絲薄綢,絲綢雪紡奔害,薄紗楷兽,縐綢,絲帶以及任何褶邊花邊細節(jié)等舀武。
巨大的帽子上飄揚著大羽毛或絲綢花朵拄养。
卷曲的波浪長發(fā)被固定在支撐墊上以顯示奢華與飽滿,而遮陽傘是必不可少的配件银舱。
由緊身胸衣塑造的時尚女性輪廓也是相當華麗的:一種大而低,向前隆起的“鴿子胸”式的襯衫跛梗,搭配黃蜂細腰寻馏,以及豐滿的臀部,被覆蓋在優(yōu)美的維多利亞風格的狹窄鐘型裙中核偿。
高領與長袖是白天裝束诚欠,胸衣與領口被蕾絲與輕薄面料充滿。
男性時尚仍舊保持簡單利落。
罩衫與晨間大衣加入到了休閑服飾中轰绵,伴隨上漿的衣領與袖口粉寞,帽子雨傘或手杖也必不可少。