1920 -1929
SUITS FOR ALL
In 1922 one fashion critic declared that the lounge suit had become “the almost universal utility dress for men,” but this did not mean that sartorial distinctions had become extinct.
Differences in the quality as well as the quantity of suits a man owned remained.
A suit could be bought ready-to-wear or secondhand, but many men still “bespoke” a suit from their tailor or had it made to measure.
Many appreciated the English cut promoted by London’s Savile Row tailors, but others preferred the less fitted and softer American “sack suit,” or the more overtly fashionable shapes provided by the French taileur.
Suit fabrics became lighter, particularly for summer — as demonstrated by the cloth used to make “Palm Beach” suits in the US.
This affected male underwear and slowly undershirts worn with cotton shorts replaced the earlier “union suit” (all-in-one undergarment).
Toward 1930 the high-waisted suits of the early part of the decade made way for a straighter silhouette.
HATS AND SHOES
Men in the 1920s could choose from a variety of hat shapes that had all been introduced in the previous century.
Other than the top hat, lounge suits could be worn with every hat type.
The bowler, also called derby or coke, was the most formal, followed by the homburg, a stiff felt with a center crease and rolled brim.
The trilby and wider-brimmed fedora, both named after literary characters, were everyday city hats, while the boater or other varieties of straw hat were for summer or the beach.
Shoes had gradually replaced boots since the turn of the century.
These were mainly of the lace-up Oxford type and had to be matched to the rest of the outfit and the season.
Dark business suits were worn with black or tan shoes, but in summer shoes of white leather or cotton duck accessorized white flannels or Palm Beach suits.
Toward the end of the decade two-tone shoes became all the rage.
1920 -1929
大眾套裝
1922年一位時(shí)尚評(píng)論家宣稱，休閑西裝已經(jīng)成為“男性通用的實(shí)用禮服”，但這并不意味著男裝的區(qū)別已經(jīng)不存在饶唤。
不同人士擁有的服飾數(shù)量與質(zhì)量差異依然存在。
一套西裝可以買成衣也可以買二手衣锣吼，但許多男士仍從他們的裁縫師哪里“預(yù)定”或者量身定做。
許多人都欣賞來(lái)自倫敦薩維列縫紉師的英式剪裁蓝厌，另有一些人則喜歡不怎么貼身并且柔軟的美式“套裝”玄叠，或者由法國(guó)縫紉師提供的更為時(shí)尚的造型。
西服面料變得更輕薄拓提，特別對(duì)于夏季读恃，在美國(guó)它們經(jīng)常被用在“棕櫚灘”套裝上。
此時(shí)收到影響的男裝分體打底衫逐漸取代了早期的“一體式內(nèi)衣”代态。
到1930年寺惫，先前10年的高腰西服讓位給了更直挺的輪廓造型。
帽子和鞋子
二十世紀(jì)20年代的男人能夠選擇上一個(gè)世紀(jì)以來(lái)延續(xù)下來(lái)的帽子造型蹦疑。
除了高頂禮帽西雀，休閑服可以搭配任意一種帽子類型。
禮帽必尼，也被稱為derby或coke蒋搜，這是最正式的款式篡撵，其次是homburg判莉，一種中心褶皺邊緣滾邊的僵硬帽子豆挽。
以文學(xué)角色命名，并且寬闊的fedora是日常都市帽子券盅，而船型或者其他款式的草帽則用于夏季和海灘帮哈。
世紀(jì)之交以來(lái)，靴子逐漸被皮鞋取代锰镀。
這些系帶的牛津皮鞋娘侍，必須與衣服的款式和季節(jié)相搭配。
深色商務(wù)套裝必須穿著黑色或棕色的皮鞋泳炉，但在夏季白色皮革可以搭配白色短褲或者棕櫚套裝憾筏。
