The apple tree is one of the most adaptable of plants. The main garden types are dwarf and semi-dwarf bushes and Gordons. There are also various ornamental forms, but for the gardener who wants to produce a good succession of apples throughout the season by the simplest means, bushes and cordons are the best proposition.
Many of the apple varieties bred over the past few decades do not grow well on their own roots. This means that cuttings rooted may not grow at the required pace or strength. To solve these difficulties, apples are budded (grafted) onto specially developed rootstocks. The rootstocks resemble the original species of Malus from which most apple trees are derived. They are usually denoted by numbers and letters which refer to the research stations where they were developed. All apple trees bought from a nursery will be grafted on a selected rootstock.
Always plant bushes and cordons with the graft unions between the rootstock and the chosen variety clear of the soil, and never allow soil to cover them in later years. The union is the swelling at about 15cm (6 in) above the stem base. If the trees are planted to the soil mark on the stem, the unions will be at the correct height above soil level.
The choice of apple varieties is very wide and it is essential to ensure that the ones you choose will cross-pollinate. Most apples will only produce fully and regularly if their flowers are pollinated by pollen from another variety that blossoms at the same time. There are a few self-pollinating varieties, but even these crop better ifcross-pollinated.
If you only have room for one tree, check to see whether any of your neighbours own an apple tree and choose a variety to complement it.
Consider only top quality trees. They cost more than inferior ones, but they will pay over and over again. Cheap trees usually end up on the bonfire.
