終于感到安全卵迂，我在Salvador機場拿出自己一直不敢?guī)У氖直碓１悖褪謾C，終于敢打電話见咒。人生最基礎的需求和最簡單的事偿衰，在我的巴西旅途中是奢侈品。直到遇到麻煩改览，才知道其寶貴性下翎。所謂的金磚四國：巴西沒有安全性，印度沒有制度性宝当，俄羅斯沒有樂觀性视事，每去一個大國，我對中國更充滿信心庆揩，因為走得遠俐东，對自己祖國更珍惜，就像是一個橡皮筋订晌，拉得越深彈回越快虏辫。我在年少時，拼命要離開自己的家和祖國锈拨，越遠越好乒裆，恨不得不講中國話不吃中國餐不穿中國衣服，越成長越愛自己國家和家推励，我要回去的鹤耍，我告訴自己！
Mika身上具備保守奧地利女孩和狂野冒險的騎士精神验辞，我很欣賞：她愛上一個素未謀面的巴西男孩稿黄，網(wǎng)上溝通了很長時間，使得她在巴西農村實習的時間多些樂趣跌造，她夏日假期和男孩約好去亞馬遜地區(qū)旅行杆怕，有非常原始的深林和鱷魚毒蛇出沒水域，比人還危險壳贪，我讓她一有網(wǎng)絡就告訴我她的安全陵珍，在巴西消失個人太輕松，沒人當回事兒违施！
雖然凌晨睡覺互纯，我還是伴隨朝陽起床，感覺壞人昨晚這么折騰磕蒲，應該起不來留潦，就沿著河開始跑步只盹，跑著跑著就又開始上山，看到村莊在腳下兔院，農戶都很簡陋但涂著不同顏色殖卑，簡單的美；有公雞打鳴坊萝，小鳥在籠子里孵稽，很可笑折騰；如果不是擔心安全十偶，我會一直跑下去肛冶；回到修道院courtyard，望著教堂可以不同角度stretch扯键；碰到一個老頭（我非常受老頭喜歡睦袖，能量小宇宙迸發(fā)特吸引有文化老頭），和我用交雜著葡萄牙語荣刑，西班牙語馅笙，法語和德語溝通，就是不懂英語厉亏，即使如此我也聽懂他是來自法國Alsace董习，好滑稽，我住在瑞士Basel經(jīng)常去Alsace爱只，唯一講德語的法國大區(qū)皿淋，世界好神奇，可惜我對老頭興趣不大恬试，和Mika更有意思窝趣。
當?shù)卦绮褪莗apaya和cooked banana，有趣训柴。Mika換上我的衣服哑舒，豐滿的身材把我的衣服第一次撐起來；我們本來就是想隨便轉轉幻馁，我?guī)次遗苓^村子美景洗鸵，就開始上山，雖然沒有hiking route仗嗦，我們都是超級好奇超級fit膘滨，被大自然美景吸引，就一直走下去稀拐。Mika警告我火邓，有人看到我們上山，很不安全，當?shù)厝撕芏辔菊吖鼻蹋瑫榱艘稽c錢鋌而走險∨槁撸可我被看到美景和晨跑灌了迷糊湯鸣驱，認為這是個還算安全地方。Let us try the luck完全看運氣蝠咆，試圖說服她和我一起繼續(xù)hiking踊东，就這么糾結著，直到.............
Sergio突然出現(xiàn)闸翅，瘦高個，看起來不像吸毒的菊霜，更像個打漁的沒落戶坚冀。Mika和他攀談問安全情況，得知他要步行去另外一個村子參加candomble鉴逞！Wow记某，另外一個不同的更地道的村子里的candomble，我心都顫抖了构捡，請求Mika和我一起去液南，極盡各種甜言蜜語和威脅：這會兒回去看到我們的吸毒的會在回去路上等我們！Sergio也說不安全勾徽。Mika特無奈滑凉，只能和我們走了。
我告訴他們我被搶的經(jīng)歷和送劫犯到警察局喘帚，Mika認為我活著是God blessing畅姊，這對Sergio有警示作用，別對我們打什么注意吹由！一個小時后涡匀，我們到了一個美麗村子：Boa Vista！坐落于深林深處溉知，只有一個酒吧和足球場陨瘩，對了，所有去過巴西地方都有足球場级乍，足球文化深入人心舌劳；當?shù)厝硕际呛诤诩∪鈴妷眩胰障鲁嗄_踢球玫荣，上午開始喝酒甚淡，多么經(jīng)典巴西農村景色，我不敢照相捅厂。
Candomble的casa簡單而且樹蔭濃密贯卦，Sergio很得意他帶來兩個外國人：歐洲和中國资柔，當?shù)厝藛朚ika中國是個國家嗎？我說想吃水果撵割，Sergio利索的爬到樹上贿堰，摘下最大的jackfruit，就地甩開啡彬，癱了一地羹与，我最愛的濃郁的jaca，人生第一次這么香噴噴的肉敦敦的水果啊庶灿，我手嘴并用纵搁，把腦袋陷進去，撐到爆炸往踢，非常傷心看到他們把剩下的扔到豬圈里腾誉，豬開始吃我到巴西吃到最好食物；對于當?shù)厝司唬@是最便宜的東西妄辩。
村子里所有娛樂就是唯一酒吧，搭個棚賣啤酒山上，我買了coco cola給Sergio眼耀，他貪婪的猶如喝瓊漿的樣子讓我擔心............我開始騎自行車亂逛，但不敢太遠。回到Casa開始吃飯晒奕，都是肉，我只能吃beans楞黄，Mika開心死了，他們笑話我和豬愛吃的東西一樣抡驼，我call.....
Candomble開始前，所有人都dress up致盟，看起來完全不一樣碎税，host lady胖胖的一身白色，各種珠寶（真的假的馏锡？）雷蹂，指甲都圖了白色，連Sergio都換上T恤杯道，不再像是賣魚的匪煌，人陸續(xù)到來，都很美美的隆重！
3點正式開始萎庭，一個男人以驚人的嗓音和能量高歌霜医，恍如在紐約最trendy夜總會里，他就是Michael Jackson驳规；只不過每個人無需entertain其他人肴敛，自己都在表演，若有人都在自我娛樂达舒，超級high值朋；God出現(xiàn)了叹侄，叫Olimare巩搏，是蛇的形態(tài)，分不出男女趾代，完全是一種沉迷的狀態(tài)贯底，頭頂一條蛇，閉著眼睛撒强，猶如日本武士一般的舞步禽捆，逐漸瘋狂，很多時候別人必須按住她他不至于瘋狂到癲癇飘哨，能量小宇宙不可控制胚想。God換了幾次衣服，每次出來都手持不同武器芽隆，但完全沒有意識舞動浊服，前面有個手持鈴鐺的男人引路。如果God接近任何人胚吁，每個人都會交叉雙手保護自己牙躺。這和頭一天晚上Candomble如此不同，我感動好幸運可以參加兩次腕扶，看到所有人都極度迷失當中孽拷，如果God迷住他們，他們也開始像God一樣舞動半抱；能量場巨大脓恕，唱歌的男人結束后另外一個老男人充滿能量接力唱。
我一直疑惑多少是宗教使然窿侈，多少是party成分进肯，持續(xù)觀察他們，不得其解棉磨；也許是both江掩，因為那么多準備和投入。正奇怪著，音樂嘎然而止环形，所有God和迷失的人開始吃吃喝喝策泣，一副完全正常的樣子，都沒有過渡性抬吟；好吧萨咕，他們對我和Mika超級Nice，我拿出錢donate給Host Lady火本，胖女人危队，她很熱情的收下了。
我開始擔心回程的安全钙畔，叫Sergio去找車茫陆，沒戲；Mika已經(jīng)完全融入到吃的狀態(tài)下擎析，當我找到一個回程的男人迷住他答應送我們回去簿盅，叫她走，Mika超級不開心離開她的肉食揍魂；安全第一桨醋，我和帶我們回去Edison熱情洋溢聊天，他講一點點英文现斋，告訴我整個system完全靠donating捐助喜最，會有人留下來meditating 21天，給些錢庄蹋，這個古老的體系完美保留working perfectly瞬内；祝福他們！Edison告訴我蔓肯，Salvador越來越violent遂鹊，很多人躲到Cachoeira，更安全蔗包；我自己經(jīng)歷也如此秉扑，還沒被搶過。
我和Mika結下了深厚的友誼调限，不亞于一起上戰(zhàn)場的戰(zhàn)友舟陆，她講了很多對未見面巴西男友的癡迷，最重要還是問我如何贏得男人的心耻矮，我沒男人秦躯，但很擅長贏得男人女人男不男女不女各色人種的心，就和她分享啦：
第一要 appreciate even small little things others doing for u 容易滿足裆装，別人為你做任何一件小事都要感恩踱承；我很擅長讓別人覺著自己很重要倡缠，尤其男人；第二是take others as priority別人更重要茎活，只要我和別人一起昙沦，她他的需求比我更重要，我會盡量滿足载荔；所以我寧肯自己旅行歷險世界盾饮，和別人一起我都要照顧他們；第三是involve but no judge只是參與從不干涉懒熙，我會對所有人提議和想法都踴躍參與和鼓勵丘损，但從不評判！
我必須承認工扎，以上都是實話徘钥，但最重要還是要有錢又大方，我超級大方不知道自己有多少錢定庵，所以贏得了Mika的身心兩天兩夜吏饿！不忍心告訴她實話踪危，她沒錢蔬浙！
Mika得到我的心經(jīng)，以為可以獲得男友親愛贞远，結果...............這是下一輪的故事了畴博。
Learning Journey
Salvador airport, finally relaxed.......
Monday, May 28, 2012 5:01 PM
Salvador airport 28th may 2012 1.30pm
Never feel so much more safe in airport before, finally got to wear my watch, take out the only bad left, and use the phone in public....did not realize all these basic things until got into trouble!
So the amazing culture experience starting when I saw Mika, she is from Austria and speak fluently Portuguese and Spanish working as a inter in Dannemann! Just nice to see somebody from a background closer and speak English, I was fascinated by the handmade cigar process there also. The company has a Swiss family owner and make the top quality cigar in a small own like Cachoeira...we chat a bit about Mika local life and activity and I was asking what should I do for Sunday, then invite her to join in me for Candomble in the evening. We realize she will have to stay with me in the hotel, so why not, I thought I was first time doing so inviting somebody just met then remember the Yellowstone experience with the Spanish girl Maria....must be something in the blood that I easily have the instinct about somebody I can trust:+)
The afternoon sun along the river is amazing, st. Felix is small and cute, with a relaxed atmosphere and seem safe...thought I was sitting by the bank waiting for Mika but watch out the environment...
Cachoeira is a nice little town, they call city, not many people in the main square and the convent hotel we stay is a nice historical place. The mass is taking place in front door church, such a nice beautiful event with fresh flower and signings. The corner cafe is a great place to have a dinner and weather can not be more perfect. Mika is quite a meat eater and I was with my favorite A?ai again...
(on the plane, Avianca is a nice airline not like the one I took webjet...very simple like a typical brazilian hotel)
She is concerned about no money but I encourage her whatever she is up to, tks for her I got to see how local strong meat is served..l got to try the bean, tomato and favio?...a local staple food powder served, was regretful I ate the fries..anyhow the evening is nice and local people hanging around, feel different with Salvador the Terrible atmosphere in the raining evening of old town... We also tried Beiju, which is a white powder making into a cake then filling with coco and condensed milk, warmly served lovely to try. Mika has some amazing experience in terms of traveling and studying with work in different jobs and countries, she even speaks some basic Chinesewell with a few months working experience in taiwan, can not imagine I met somebody in deep Bahia no where to see anybody speaking English but then her!!!? she is only 24 years old which reminds me my time starting in London, same age but completely inexperienced with world outside China and very narrow minded in a sense....open for everything though...
Just about time to meet the local guide Jose at 8pm and he tries to charge us double but I promise RS100....which eventually I figure out it is open for everyone not needed to pay...anyhow Jose is the only person speaking very poor English to show us, we first go for a drink, since candomblé starts at 10pm not 8pm, local time is flexible anyhow. We got to sit in front of a local culture group who dances amazing samba, which I did not realize it's Samba, been told it is local village people getting together every weekend and all mixture of old, young, slim and fat, but dance with amazing movement, guys play a hand drum so strong in rhythm with high enjoyment, they entertain themselves well! With Jose very broken English I understand there is 24 groups who rotate every weekend! Samba origins from Cachoeira!!! Famous from Rio though. Mika takes some local liquor masaka? Smells very strong alcohol! She never stays in the city as loving outside with only bus connection so it turns out a fresh experience for both of us.
We climb up some residential area to candomblé casa, some residential houses with veyr? loud music like a night club, it is all over brazil like this sometimes they put a big hifi back of the car and park it with loud music on the street. they love loud music!
Out of the slope of some casas we saw this candomblé place, small but fully decorated with paper and drawing on the wall, some crowds there already and a lot in white clothes some dress so nicely, hardly imagine in their normal look of daytime! We sit in front, being told able to photo and video whatever....an tall big guy, who is main host as priest, with a small instrument like a bell, on the ground they spreading some green leves which has nice herbal smell. More and more people dressing in white coming, then it starts!!! Just like in a dream, impossible to describe how people dance and turn around and around, some people looking in trance and completely or half unconscious, some young boys with such an angel look in the face and deep into it. The music is simple with drum but so loud and powerful like a whole orchestra. The steps look simple and movement is quite routined they seem ignoring outside world and into their own dream and imagination, I was shocked and find it hard to clear my mind, roaming with it. Then partially they invite the GOD, Orixás coming with a deep bended upper body, cross lines in the body, like a lion and head down, arms crossed, can not see his face, like a wild creature, people seem so respectful when he/she is getting closer to them. We saw his appearance twice but whole process continues. Both of us is a bit tired and also the music has some hypnotism effect, eve so loud, so we came out. Before the event and also during, they put some firecrackers from time to time to call for people....some young people hanging there, seem enjoy this tradition?
We thought back hotel but amazing to see whole crowds in the square we were, of course for a drink, , mika is always chatting with local people with veyr good accent in my ears, I am fascinated to see how local young people drink and dress, all woman well exposed of their breasts and legs, so proud of their bodies. They all drink this Schin local beer and smoke, a local band in a very messy bar playing loud music but every bar is putting loud music even cars around. Local suco of manga is good but contains a lot of sugar as I drink it...we back hotel sleep at 12.30pm. Hotel is best in local standard but so basic...not maintained at all! Before falling sleep we chat and knowing Mika has a brazilian boy friend...
27th sunday morning I was up to see sunlight, feel safe to run. Got to pass villages, less people hanging around with bird in cage, quite funny. I feel I can go forward since bad guys might not get up early:+)still keep eyes on everything around me, it is very foggy along the river but misty with roaster singing, if not because of distracted by safety it is indeed very pleasant country side to jog. Houses are poor and simple but with different colors, natural beauty. I did not go too far in the village side and back to river side, cross the bridge to st. Felix, passing Dannemann and railway then back. The court yard in convent is so nice with the view of the church, feel so many nice memories of stretching all over the places. Breakfast with fresh papaya and cooked bananas, obviously a normal way of eating it...a local yam like food with a lot of fibers. An old guy there to talk, who mixes portuguese, Spanish, French and German...turns out he is from Alsace how funny is that! We said to have a walk in the town center, but one way leading another we were in the uphill of village top. Both of us have this curiosity to discover more, even without knowing hiking route at all we somehow walk in a path which is so pretty we just go on and on, Mika told me it is not very secured as people saw us passing by and some people in drug is very dangerous, but she also told me it is very safe village, both are true, it is really just a luck try! Even did not prepare for a long walk, we start to enjoy the walking path until we met a local old guy, Sergio? Mika is able to chat and find out he is up to another village for candomblé. Wow, another village candomblé, my whole interests are arisen there is no better option than another authentic candomblé, even better it is in village: Boa Vista. Sergio said two hours walking and keep on warning us not safe for two of us walking along the path, I was not concerned much as people look more friendly than Sao paulo and Salvador, after robbing once I was more alert but also judging the environment more correctly...I am happy eventually Mika is up to it, we head along, it was not two hours walk at all, a nice one hour walk with good chat about our travelling experience and my robbery story we end up in boa vista at 11.20am. It is a small village in center of green field, very pretty. Local people hanging in the only bar there to drink beer, watching young guys playing football, they all having very strong muscles fully dark skinned, some without shoes on, good player under a hot sun. It is a classical village Sunday pleasure picture, I dare not take picture there...
We found candomblé casa immediately, Sergio is happy to see us, we watch them how to prepare the event, cooking is taking place. They are all warm and happy to see us, Mika can communicate well with them I just hang around. A Guy who is said to be host of house, show us the places which is small and simple. But we got most amazing jaca, jackfruit in my life: Sergio climbs up the very tall jaca tree, easily, pick up a huge jaca which is so rich and fruity, I never had such a wonderful jaca feast in my life, comparing with Philippine this is way too much better. Use my finger directly eat it, like a big earring of each seed with the meat, I was a bit hesitate when they ask me to wash my hand, and most disappointed when they through the whole jaca to the huge pig!!! Who starts to eat my best food:+) obviously for them this is the most common cheap thing u can get locally...
We walk to the village, only fun thing there is hanging in the bar, I just enjoy the sun and view, Sergio is happy that I bought him coco cola....was not much to do and candombléstarts only 3pm instead of 1pm as Sergio said, which means that Mika can not go home in the eve which I offers her to stay another night. It is such a simple life there local men just hanging around drinking beer, I tried to bike a bit but not very far, also feel a bit lazy under the heat. Sergio tries to hire a car to take us back after candomblé...
Back to casa we were offered the food, everything is meat besides my beans, Mika is happy and I eat a lot of beans....all dressed up with again complete different look, even Sergio dress in his jeans and blue shirt, not like a poor fishmen anymore...host lady is in poppy white lace dress with a lot of jewelry and even get her nails in white....
It starts around 3pm with small crowd, the guy who sings is just amazing with his high voice and energy. I feel he is like a party boy in a trendy club, he is the star! Not exactly proper metaphor, but the whole event is like a self entertainment what we do in mordant world, people play for fun of yourself not for a typical show, they are having fun themselves, most people participating rather than watching...the god is olimaré? Who is son/daughter of orixas representing as a snake, but when god is showing up it is a trances woman, with closed eyes, in a very martial style of dressing, dance energetically in variable forms, getting more and more big? movements and sometimes others have to hold her to calm down her energy....she changes clothes a few times and also holding different "weapon" to come out, seems without any conscientious at all, dance a a very devoted way, others are following or sometimes just a guy in front with bell to lead her direction. When she is getting closer to the observers, they put their hand, seem to control or protect themselves? This candomblé is so different with night before, and people all more less involved, and they seem pass the energy also as the other start to dance like the god after they being taken.....even a guy I met who speaks some basic English, got into a god solder like dress starting to dance, but he teaches dance as said, so I am not surprised he can dance....
They seem really enjoy the whole event, particular the key singer, and another old guy to join the singing later on....I was very much in wonder how much is for religious how much is for fun or party in a way I feel it...might be a mixture of both as the whole event last quite long with preparation and after it they all start eat and chat, the god and other dances appear immediate as normal, not even a transition needed....at 5.30pm just about I am getting enough they finish, I been told finish at 10pm though....I was trying to show a small nice gesture with some money as they have treated us so nicely, good that host lady takes it happily.
Not surprise that no car is coming and Mika is a bit upset that I did not take the offer of eating food there....rather just what to leave...luckily the guy Edison, who backs to the city and give us a lift after their feast!!! I understand it is a event donating by whoever stays in casa "meditating" for 21 days.....might be completely mistaken but it seems the community works perfectly in this way. He evens went to Japan for performance many years ago...wow! They all said to use Salvador is getting more and more violent and they prefer Cachoeira as it is safe...I share the feeling with my short stay....
Got my longing a?ai which I kind of my food, last one and luckily I can find things I love in every country I travel to, vegetarian is not popular here:+). Even Sunday eve is still popular with people around, we back hotel to enjoy some quite moment, share photos of family feeling closer to understand Mika better, she is a strong girl with strong opinion....think about when I was 24 she is doing so much more...
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