????? ??（原文取自格陵蘭航空公司雜志《Suluk》2017年03 期）

When the clock strikes 12 midnight, F?ringehavn is Greenland’s scariest place.

當(dāng)時(shí)鐘敲到午夜12點(diǎn)连躏，F(xiàn)?ringehavn是格陵蘭最可怕的地方

Few people get to visit the abandoned fishing port which is located 60 kilometres south of Nuuk. Many people may not even want to! Nowadays, F?ringehavn resembles something out of a Stephen King horror film with evil spirits that haunt the night. Next in command on the inspection ship Tulugaq, Jens M. Hansen felt his heart in his throat as he walked on his own around the empty buildings with his camera, while the wind howled in the eaves.

很少有人能夠去造訪位于這個(gè)努克以南60公里的廢棄的漁港。很多人甚至就是根本不想去！現(xiàn)在，F(xiàn)?ringehavn就像來自史蒂芬金恐怖電影的情景赦肃，邪惡的靈魂在黑夜里游蕩粥喜。接下來就輪到Tulugaq號(hào)巡檢船上的指揮Jens M. Hansen了，當(dāng)他手拿照相機(jī)恍飘，獨(dú)自行走在自己空曠的建筑物周圍瘤旨，寒風(fēng)呼嘯著從屋檐下穿過梯啤，他覺得自己的心臟已經(jīng)提到喉嚨里了。

– My colleagues continued on into the fjord system after setting me ashore at Nordafar. I was completely alone. That made a big impression. I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste. But it was also as if the people had had every intention of returning within a short time, says Jens M. Hansen.

——“我的同事們繼續(xù)在海峽里存哲，只把我在Nordafar放到岸上因宇。我現(xiàn)在是徹底的孤家寡人。這真是印象深刻祟偷。對(duì)于我可能會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)什么我有那么一點(diǎn)不安察滑；所有的東西都好像是被匆匆遺留在這里了⌒蕹Γ可是贺辰，又似乎像是人們?cè)?jīng)打算短時(shí)間內(nèi)會(huì)再回來一樣∏妒”Jens M. Hansen先生說

Oven-ready socity ?現(xiàn)成的社會(huì)

The last permanent residents left F?ringehavn more than 25 years ago. Since then, the ravages of time have attacked the place. Rust, rot and mould are eating the buildings. Surprisingly, much of the original furniture is still intact. Jens M. Hansen ?has documented this with his camera:

F?ringehavn最后的居民離開這里也已經(jīng)是25年前了饲化。自從那時(shí)，時(shí)光的摧殘侵蝕著這個(gè)地方吗伤。鐵銹吃靠、腐爛、發(fā)霉足淆，正在吞噬這些建筑物巢块。令人驚訝的是捺球，很多的原有家具設(shè)備依然保存完好。Jens M. Hansen用他的相機(jī)記錄下了這一切夕冲。

– Accounting ledgers from as far back as 1958 ?lay out in the open. Industrial machinery stood ready to receive goods and a chair stood out on the quay, so you could enjoy your coffee in the afternoon sun. There was a piano that had collapsed in on itself. There were also the huge factory and refrigeration halls, giving an indication of the work that went on here. And the community centre with a cinema and the superintendent’s house, says Jens M. Hansen and adds:

——“早先1958年的會(huì)計(jì)賬目公開可見。機(jī)械設(shè)備已然就緒裂逐，卸裝貨物卜高，一把椅子就放置在碼頭邊顯眼處庭敦，你只需在下午的陽(yáng)光下享用著咖啡。一架倒塌的鋼琴疼电。一間大型工廠以及幾個(gè)冷藏庫(kù)，提示著這里曾經(jīng)進(jìn)行過生產(chǎn)修陡。還有，一個(gè)有影院有當(dāng)?shù)亻L(zhǎng)官的房子構(gòu)成的社區(qū)中心，”Jens M. Hansen接著說：

? ? ?【上圖】It makes you think of the ruined castle in the James Bond film，Skyfall，but it is the abandoned main building in F?ringehavn. 這也許讓你想起詹姆斯邦德電影《大破天幕殺機(jī)》中的城堡廢墟惠遏，其實(shí)，這是在F?ringehavn被遺棄的F?ringehavn的主要建筑透绩。

“I was a little apprehensive about what I would find; everything appeared as if it had been left in haste” —— Jens M. Hansen

“對(duì)于我可能會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)什么我有那么一點(diǎn)不安草丧；所有的東西都好像是被匆匆遺留在這里了烛亦〈酥蓿”——Jens M. Hansen

History 歷史

F?ringehavn opened in 1937 as an international fishing port. A hospital, a warehouse for salting fish and a radio station were built. Hardly 50 years later, the fish trade stopped. The Danish Faroese company, Nordafar贾节， went bankrupt in 1989.

F?ringehavn在1937年作為國(guó)際化漁港而建。城里還建了一所醫(yī)院，一個(gè)腌魚儲(chǔ)存?zhèn)}庫(kù)以及一個(gè)廣播電臺(tái)扁藕。僅僅50年以后棍弄，因?yàn)榈溗鶎俜_群島的Nordafar公司在1989年破產(chǎn)倒閉痕支，這里的漁業(yè)貿(mào)易終止了。

The historical accounts of the place are many. It is particularly fascinating to read of earlier times and what it felt like to be left behind when the ?winter took hold of the country and the regular personnel left.

這個(gè)地方的歷史故事有很多察绷。研究早先的時(shí)候，去體會(huì)一下當(dāng)時(shí)嚴(yán)寒的冬季里蚜印，人們陸續(xù)離開，被落在后面的感覺，這真是有特別吸引力的事情错敢。

For many years, it was caretaker Egon J?rgensen’s duty to take the ?winter watch? together with his wife. In an article in the newspaper Gr?nlandsposten (published in May 1960) he told of the strange job:

很多年里翰灾，負(fù)責(zé)冬季看管是留守人Egon J?rgensen和他妻子的職責(zé)。在1960年五月出版的《格陵蘭郵報(bào)》（Gr?nlandsposten）的一篇文章上稚茅，他談到了這個(gè)奇怪的工作：

– On a purely human level, I am most comfortable when it is just the two of us. We earn our money in the summer, but we like it, when the last people leave, because then we have the peace and quiet of the winter. In the summer, there is so much going on here, he told Gr?nlandsposten.

——按照純粹人類的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)纸淮，當(dāng)這里只有我們兩個(gè)人的時(shí)候我覺得最舒服了。我們?cè)谙奶熨嵶约旱腻X亚享，最后的人離開了萎馅，但我們喜歡這樣，因?yàn)檫@樣我們擁有平和清凈的冬季了虹蒋。在夏天糜芳，這里會(huì)發(fā)生很多事情飒货。他對(duì)《格陵蘭郵報(bào)》講述說。

However, according to Egon J?rgensen, not everyone could handle it: – The first person I shared the winter watch with, could not handle it. It was too lonely for him and he became depressed. ?

然而峭竣，按照Egon S?rensen的說法塘辅，不是所有的人都能應(yīng)對(duì)得了：——第一個(gè)跟我一起做冬季看管的人，就不能應(yīng)對(duì)皆撩。對(duì)他來說這里太孤單了扣墩，他變得很郁悶。

? 【上圖】The chair is set out for a cup of afternoon coffee in the sun. Tulugaq can be glimpsed out on the fjord. ? 這把椅子扛吞，為陽(yáng)光下下午的咖啡而設(shè)呻惕。坐在這里，可以一睹海灣外Tulugaq鳥在飛翔滥比。

? ?【上圖】All the windows were shattered apart from one, which I found after looking for two hours, says Jens M. Hansen. 所有的窗戶都破了亚脆，只有一個(gè)仍然完好，我找了兩個(gè)小時(shí)才發(fā)現(xiàn)盲泛。Jens M. Hansen說濒持。

? 【上2圖】An entire society with warehouse, cinema and railway was built up – and abandoned ?over night?. 一個(gè)完整的社區(qū)，有影院寺滚，有倉(cāng)庫(kù)柑营，鐵路也建成了—— 一夜之間就被丟棄了。