1500 - 1560
FROM DRAPE TO SHAPE
Soft, draped lines began to disappear as the century went on.
Women's dress had two main parts: bodice and skirt, and sleeves were often separate too.
The gradual move from clothing that draped over the body to clothing that shaped it was complete.
Only outer robes and coats were now waistless.
Full skirts widened with gathered and pleated waistlines.
Outer skirts were opened up in front to reveal a petticoat or forepart underneath.
The Spanish farthingale (a hooped petticoat) created a bell shape and defined the century's silhouette.
Bodices became smooth and fitted by adding stiff materials inside.
While the torso straightened, sleeves grew larger and more elaborate.
LINEN SHIRTS
Beneath every elaborate gown a linen undergarment was worn next to the skin.
It was known by many names: English smock, shift, or shirt; French chemise; Italian camisia; Spanish camisa; and German hemd.
This was an essential layer because linen could be washed and it protected outer garments (which were never washed) from the body.
When clothing started to reveal this layer, emphasis around the neck and cuffs increased.
Sleeves became bigger to create abundant billows emerging from gowns.
公元1500 - 1560年
從垂墜到塑形
隨著世紀(jì)的推演伪阶，柔軟垂墜的線條開始消失。
女性服飾出現(xiàn)兩個(gè)重要的組成部分：上衣與下裙，袖子通常是開口的。
服裝逐漸從垂墜全身向整體塑形開始演變。
僅有外套長(zhǎng)袍與大衣是沒有腰線的。
豐滿的裙子的腰線被褶皺加寬了。
外罩裙在前面打開，為了露出底下的內(nèi)搭裙花竞。
西班牙人的襯裙farthingale創(chuàng)造出一種鐘型結(jié)構(gòu)，并且定義了這個(gè)世紀(jì)的輪廓掸哑。
通過內(nèi)部附加硬質(zhì)材料约急，上身胸衣變得光滑又貼身零远。
當(dāng)身體挺直，袖子開始膨大并且更加精細(xì)了厌蔽。
亞麻襯衣
每件精美的長(zhǎng)衫下都有一件貼合皮膚的亞麻襯衣在里面躺枕。
它有許多熟知的名字：英式罩衫english smock服猪，直筒連衣裙shift，或者襯衣shirt拐云；法式女用寬松無袖內(nèi)衣french chemise罢猪；意大利女用襯衣italian camisia；西班牙女用襯衣spanish camisa叉瘩；和德式襯衫german hemd膳帕。
這是必不可少的打底，因?yàn)閬喡榭梢韵礈燹泵澹梢云鸬礁綦x身體與外衣（從來不洗）的作用危彩。
當(dāng)服裝開始顯露這一層時(shí)，領(lǐng)口與袖口的重點(diǎn)增加了泳桦。
袖子變得更膨大汤徽，為禮服創(chuàng)造更豐富的層次。
