D&G惹眾怒挺峡，看外媒怎么看？
奢侈品消費市場如何担钮？中國消費者多少橱赠？這場危機專家怎么說？危機公關怎么看箫津？
品牌全球化需要注意什么狭姨？
本文閱讀大約需要3分鐘
Why Dolce &Gabbana's China blunder could be such a disaster
CNN用blunder可見外媒也覺得D&G犯了大錯
D&G需要處理它們在中國犯下的錯誤，或者離開中國繁榮的奢侈品市場苏遥。
New York（CNN Business）— Dolce & Gabbana needs to clean up the mess it made in China, or left out of the country's luxury boom.??
boom這個詞讓我們知道老外都知道中國的奢侈品市場有多么繁榮
過去幾天饼拍，這家意大利時尚品牌一直在嘗試應對一場由廣告活動引發(fā)的危機。批評人士稱這場廣告活動是“無禮的和種族主義的”田炭。讓人吃驚的是师抄，這些攻擊性言論據(jù)稱是該公司聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人Stefano Gabbana的個人Instagram賬戶發(fā)出的。這位意大利設計師否認寫過這些信息诫肠。
Over the past several days, the Italian fashion line has been trying to manage a crisis caused by an ad campaign that critics called "disrespectful and racist." It's also reeling from offensive comments allegedly sent from co-founder Stefano Gabbana's personal Instagram account. The Italian designer has denied writing the messages.
這個事件傳播迅速司澎，后果嚴峻欺缘。名人呼吁抵制栋豫。中國的電商把D&G的產(chǎn)品下架挤安。該品牌也由于這個宣傳片取消了要在上海舉辦的一場大型時裝秀。這個短片是采用一個亞裔模特艱難的用筷子吃意大利食品來意圖宣傳此次大秀丧鸯。
Fallout from the controversy has been swift and harsh. Celebrities called for a boycott. Chinese e-commerce sites pulled D&G products from their virtual shelves. The brand canceled a major fashion show in Shanghai that the ads, which featured an Asian model struggling to eat Italian food with chopsticks, were designed to promote.
紐約大學Stern商學院的Tulin Erdem教授說蛤铜，“這是個大的品牌危機，有時候品牌確實復蘇了…但是只有1/10, (這一比例）這已經(jīng)很高了丛肢∥Х剩”
"This is a big brand crisis," said Tulin Erdem, a professor of marketing at NYU's Stern business school. "Sometimes brands do recover…but on a scale of 1-10, [this is] really high up."
疏遠客戶總是不利于生意。但是對奢侈品品牌來講蜂怎，趕走中國消費者是一場災難穆刻。
Alienating customers is always bad for business. But for luxury brands, pushing away Chinese shopper is a disaster.
對奢侈品的嘗試
A taste for luxury
曾在政府打擊腐敗期間一度放棄奢侈品的中國消費者，如今正在掀起一波高端時尚品牌的消費熱潮杠步。
Chinese consumers that abandoned luxury brands during a government crackdown corruption are now delivering a wave of sales to high-fashion brands.
Gucci和Alexander McQueen的母公司Kering集團表示氢伟，2018年上半年在中國的銷售額飆升了30%。法國時尚品牌愛馬仕將同期銷售利潤創(chuàng)下記錄歸功于在中國的銷售幽歼。D&G作為一家私營公司沒有對外公布他們的銷售數(shù)據(jù)朵锣。
Kering, the owner of Gucci and Alexander McQueen, said that sales in China soared 30% in the first half of 2018. French fashion house Hermes credits sales in the country for record profits over the same period. D&G is a private company that does not share its sales figures with the public.
麥肯錫的數(shù)據(jù)顯示，中國消費者每年對奢侈品的花費超過70億美元甸私。這一數(shù)字幾乎占全球市場的三分之一诚些。
Overall, Chinese consumers spend over $7 billion each year on luxury goods, according to the consultancy McKinsey. That's nearly one-third of the global market.
D&G或許把上海時裝秀視為贏得中國消費者的一種方式。
Dolce & Gabbana may have seen the Shanghai show as a way to win over those consumers.
D&G在社交媒體賬號上以#DGLovesChina和#DGTheGreatShow的標簽推廣了此次取消的時裝秀皇型。
The company had promoted the canceled event with the hashtags #DGLovesChina and #DGTheGreatShow on its social media accounts.
隨著批評聲的不斷涌現(xiàn)诬烹，聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana試圖解釋他們的想法。
As criticism poured in, co-founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana tried to explain their thinking.
周三兩位創(chuàng)始人在Instgram和Twitter上發(fā)表聲明稱：“我們的夢想是在上海舉辦一場致敬中國的活動弃鸦，講述我們的歷史和愿景绞吁。這不僅僅是一場時裝秀，更是我們對中國的熱愛和熱情的特別創(chuàng)作寡键∠朴荆“
"Our dream was to bring to Shanghai a tribute event dedicated to China which tells our history and vision," the founders said in a statement posted to Instagram and Twitter on Wednesday. "It was not simply a fashion show, but something that we created especially with love and passion for China."
該公司還聲稱Gabbana的賬號被黑了，那些攻擊性言論未經(jīng)授權西轩≡倍妫“我愛中國和中國文化。對發(fā)生的事我很抱歉”Gabbana在個人賬戶上寫道藕畔。
The company also said that Gabbana's account was hacked, and that the offensive messages were unauthorized. "I love China and the Chinese culture," Gabbana wrote on his personal account. "I'm so sorry for what happened."
該公司并未對CNN商業(yè)的置評要求做出及時回應马僻。
The company did not immediately respond to a request for comment from CNN Business.
錯失良機
Missing the mark
一些人覺得道歉并不真誠。
Some didn't find the apologies sincere.
華裔法國模特Estelle陳注服，退出了時裝秀韭邓，并且在Instgram上直接點名D&G和Gabbana道“你不愛中國措近，你只是愛錢∨纾”
Chinese-French model Estelle Chen, who withdrew from the show, wrote "you don't love China, you love money," in a Instagram post tagging both the brand and Gabbana directly.
紐約大學任教奢侈品營銷和品牌策略的Thomai Serdari表示瞭郑，中國消費者對于這些在網(wǎng)上迅速/病毒式傳播的批評特別敏感。
Chinese consumers are particularly sensitive to criticism that goes viral online, said Thomai Serdari, a strategist in luxury marketing and branding who teaches at NYU's Stern Business school.
她說：“人們真切的被網(wǎng)上發(fā)生的事所影響鸭你，他們主要在網(wǎng)上購物屈张，而且他們是優(yōu)秀的研究者，他們有奢飾品市場的經(jīng)驗袱巨，并且知道自己在買什么阁谆。“
"People are really influenced by what's happening online," she said. "They do shop primarily online, and they're excellent researchers," she said. They "have experience in the luxury market and they really what they're buying.
長江商學院營銷學教授孫寶紅表示愉老，年輕场绿、富裕的中國消費者對待的奢侈品的方式正在改變。
And the way young, wealthy Chinese consumers are thinking about luxury is evolving, said Sun Baohong, a marketing professor at Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business.
她說：“以前奢侈品更多的作為彰顯社會地位的一種方式嫉入，而現(xiàn)在焰盗，奢飾品更多的作為表達自我”。
Before it was more for showing off social status," she said. Now, it's about "making a personal statement."
”即使D&G沒有因為廣告冒犯到人們劝贸，它也很可能錯過了宣傳目標姨谷。“她還補充說映九。
Even if Dolce & Gabbana hadn't offended people with its ads, she added, it probably would have missed the mark with the campaign.
“那則廣告實際上展示了非常過時的‘中國形象’"她說梦湘。”中國消費者依然喜歡外國品牌件甥，但是情況正在發(fā)生變化捌议。“
"The ad is really showing a very old-fashioned" image of China, she said. "Chinese consumers still love foreign brands, but things are changing."
賠禮道歉
Making amends
現(xiàn)在D&G不得不想辦法贏回中國消費者引有。
Now, D&G has to figure out how to win back Chinese consumers.
危機公關公司CommCore Consulting Group創(chuàng)始人Andrew
Gilman表示：”這不可能一蹴而就瓣颅。“品牌必須”找到他們能找到的最有影響力的人……"并重新贏得他們的好感譬正。
"It's not going to happen overnight," said Andrew Gilman, founder of the crisis communication firm CommCore Consulting Group. The brand will have to "find the biggest influencers they can…[and] get back in their good graces," he said.
他說宫补，公司還必須在社交平臺和其他任何與顧客溝通的渠道上分享一致的信息。
The company must also share a consistent message across its social media platforms and any other channels it uses to communicate with consumers, he said.
今后曾我，它必須更好的理解中國文化粉怕。“你可以成為一個全球品牌抒巢，”Gilman說贫贝，“但你必須具有本土敏感性。”
Moving forward, it will have to do a better job of understanding Chinese culture. "You can be a global brand," Gilman said, "but you have to have local sensitivities."
CNN's Ivana Kottasová, Stephy Chung and Oscar Holland contributed to this report.
原文鏈接：https://www.cnn.com/2018/11/24/business/dolce-gabbana-china/
