原文我會(huì)放在譯文后面优构，英語(yǔ)好的強(qiáng)烈建議直接去看原文
這樣我還能少丟點(diǎn)兒人 -_-#
原文地址：http://www.chiangmaitouristguide.com/07-2008/feature1.html
更多內(nèi)容蚂踊，歡迎關(guān)注豆列
「清邁拾遺」：http://www.douban.com/people/gaobiedeying/doulists/all
原文作者：Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
配圖：子文東
1296年爷抓，孟萊王建立清邁作為蘭納王國(guó)的首府卡者。為了保護(hù)這座新城，他下令圍繞它建造城墻與護(hù)城河贾富。城市的布局基于當(dāng)時(shí)的軍事與天象理論歉眷，在同（素可泰的）蘭甘亨王和（帕夭的）安孟王討論后，城墻被認(rèn)定應(yīng)當(dāng)布置為900x1000 wah(1800x2000米）的矩形颤枪，環(huán)繞它的護(hù)城河應(yīng)寬18米汗捡。工程于1296年4月12日開始，以90000人耗時(shí)4個(gè)月才完成畏纲。建成后扇住，每側(cè)城墻都配有一道城門，并以其位置或者在城市生活中的意義命名盗胀。Abha Bhamorabutr在他的書《清邁故事》里艘蹋，向我們講述了一個(gè)關(guān)于城門的趣史。
北門曾被稱為"Hua Vieng" 門女阀，意為進(jìn)入城市的第一道門。在泰語(yǔ)中屑迂，"Hua"為頭浸策，"Vieng"在泰北地區(qū)指進(jìn)行防御處。公元1400年左右惹盼，這一名字被改為"Chang Puek"庸汗，即"白象門"。是清邁歷史上的兩次事件促成了這次更名手报。第一件事發(fā)生于1386年蚯舱，清邁的第八位統(tǒng)治者雕薪，也就是將佛法由錫蘭引入蘭納地區(qū)的根納王，收到了來(lái)自于哈里奔猜王國(guó)高僧 Phra Maha Sumana Thera＊所贈(zèng)的佛骨晓淀。國(guó)王想找一處神圣的地方來(lái)收藏它們所袁。為選定最吉利的地點(diǎn)，他將佛骨放在一匹白象背上的象轎中凶掰，并將它放生燥爷。跟隨這匹白象，國(guó)王與高僧走出了Hua Vieng門又徒步爬上素貼山懦窘，直到它止步于山上某處前翎。此處后來(lái)便成為了今天素貼山雙龍寺的所在地。
第二件事發(fā)生于大約15年后港华。 根納王之子Saen Muang Ma王帶領(lǐng)他的軍隊(duì)離開清邁遠(yuǎn)征素可泰，去討伐素可泰國(guó)王午衰。當(dāng)他們抵達(dá)素可泰城郊時(shí)立宜，決定休息一夜，在第二天早晨再發(fā)動(dòng)進(jìn)攻臊岸。然而橙数，當(dāng)他們?cè)诔峭庠鸂I(yíng)，準(zhǔn)備明早攻城時(shí)帅戒，遭到了素可泰軍的重創(chuàng)灯帮。對(duì)疲憊的清邁軍而言，這場(chǎng)先發(fā)制人的襲擊完全在預(yù)料之外逻住，以至他們很快就筋疲力竭钟哥，潰不成軍。Saen Muang Ma王靠著兩位忠仆Obb和Yeraka的勇敢與毅力瞎访，才帶著僅剩的一條命從這場(chǎng)慘敗中逃走腻贰。在帶著國(guó)王逃出營(yíng)地后，由于路途艱險(xiǎn)装诡，他們便輪流背負(fù)著他直到250公里之遙的清邁银受。安全的返回讓國(guó)王非常感激，他以財(cái)物重賞他的仆人鸦采，并以"Khun Chang Sai（左象）"與"Khun Chang Kava（右象）"為名賜予他們貴族身份宾巍。因?yàn)樽笥蚁缶≡贑hieng Chom，此地隨后建起了"白色雙象"以示榮耀渔伯。雙象起初曾放置在通往"Hua Vieng"門的路兩側(cè)顶霞，自那時(shí)起，城門的名字就改成了"白象門"。
南門曾被稱為"Tai Vieng Gate"蓝厌，意為最后一道城門。作為Abha Bhamorabutr 城史中的遺漏問題古徒，他并沒有解釋從何時(shí)起因?yàn)楹问峦靥幔祥T的名字改成了今天的"清邁門"。
東門曾因?yàn)楦浇拇迩f，被稱為"Chiang Ruak"門疹吃，后來(lái)又更名為"內(nèi)Tha Pae"門蹦疑。19世紀(jì)末，在Wat San Fang寺附近萨驶，城外東堤處的"外Tha Pae"門被拆除后歉摧，東門的名字便被簡(jiǎn)稱為"Tha Pae"門了。"Tha"在泰語(yǔ)中意為"港"腔呜，"Pae"意為水上住宅叁温。將這兩個(gè)詞合在一起，"Tha Pae"是指一座停滿水上住宅的港口育谬。該港口當(dāng)年就在美萍河上如今的Nawarat橋附近券盅。水上住宅曾經(jīng)是從事是河上貿(mào)易者們的交易場(chǎng)所和家帮哈。
西門一直被稱為"Suan Dok Gate"。"Suan"意為花園或公園娘侍，"Dok"是"Dok Mai"的簡(jiǎn)稱咖刃，泰語(yǔ)花之意。離此門不遠(yuǎn)憾筏，就在城墻外邊嚎杨，曾有一座皇家花園，滿是芬芳繽紛的鮮花以及水質(zhì)清澈的池塘氧腰。國(guó)王和蘭納王國(guó)的權(quán)貴會(huì)與他們的親人帶著皇室隨從去那里休息娛樂枫浙，有時(shí)在池中沐浴。
1371年古拴，根納王獻(xiàn)出了花園的一部分給高僧Phra Maha Sumana用做佛殿箩帚，后來(lái)Wat Suan Dok寺就建在這里。
在孟萊王筑就圍繞清邁的城墻與城門大約100年后紧帕，Saen Muang Ma王增加了第五道門。他的妻子Phra Rajathevee并不希望住在城內(nèi)桅打，所以她在城西南角外的Suan Ra區(qū)造了一座宮殿是嗜。Phra Rajathevee曾經(jīng)幾乎每天通過(guò)這道"Suan Ra"門去監(jiān)督柴迪隆寺佛塔的建造愈案。隨后歷史變遷，由于正對(duì)這道門的區(qū)域用途改變鹅搪，城門的名字便從"Suan Ra"改為它今天的名字"Suan Prung"站绪。Abha Bhamorabutr 解釋說(shuō)，泰語(yǔ)中"Suan"有雙重含義丽柿。作為名詞是花園或公園崇众，用做動(dòng)詞時(shí)則指對(duì)抗的動(dòng)作。例如以手持矛插入他人體內(nèi)航厚。
"Prung"源自"Pung"一詞顷歌，在泰北意為肚子或腹部。在清邁歷史的這段時(shí)期幔睬，"Suan Prung門"曾是忤逆者被處決之地眯漩，處決的方式是將囚犯捆綁示眾，用矛刺入他們的腹部麻顶，再由他們這樣死掉赦抖。
第六道門队萤，"Chiang Moi"門，是由1447－1487年統(tǒng)治清邁的Tilokrat **王所建矫钓。他認(rèn)為從他的皇宮到美萍河上的港口路途實(shí)在太遠(yuǎn)要尔，所以為縮短距離，他切斷了城墻新娜，建了一道新門赵辕。這道門起初曾因它在城中所處的區(qū)域被稱為"Sri Poom門"。不久后名字被改為"Chang Moi門"概龄。"Chang Moi"在泰語(yǔ)中是"睡象"的意思还惠，但是和南門一樣，關(guān)于名字的變更是何時(shí)又因?yàn)楹问露l(fā)生私杜，Abha Bhamorabutr 沒有找到解釋蚕键。
直到第二次世界大戰(zhàn)，這六道門都是進(jìn)出城市的唯一通道寄猩，也是城市生活的中心嫉晶，每道門都配有一處市場(chǎng)。它們時(shí)刻被守護(hù)，并且只從日出開放到日落替废。每道門外還都曾有一座跨越護(hù)城河的竹橋箍铭，戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)發(fā)生時(shí)，這些橋會(huì)被收起椎镣，城門也會(huì)緊閉诈火。持續(xù)不斷的損壞與重建貫穿了這些城墻與城門的歷史，但即使有時(shí)間的侵襲與入侵軍隊(duì)的破壞状答，它們?nèi)匀恍掖妗?801年P(guān)hra Chao Kawila時(shí)期冷守，城門還曾重建。但到了20世紀(jì)40年代日軍占領(lǐng)泰國(guó)期間惊科，當(dāng)日本人挪走城磚去鋪就一條通往Pai縣的路時(shí)拍摇，一個(gè)時(shí)代也因他們而終結(jié)了。除此之外馆截，日本人還拆走了原Nawarat 橋的跨梁用來(lái)在這條至今可見的路上另建一座橋***充活。1966－1969年期間，城門與角墻被再次重建蜡娶。
700年后窖张，孟萊王當(dāng)初的防御工事還剩四道城門幕随。Tha Pae門與四個(gè)角墻曾于1975年重修。盡管城墻幾乎消失了宿接，但是那些曾經(jīng)繁華的城門仍在赘淮，經(jīng)由它們的名字，這座城市的歷史記憶依然鮮活澄阳。
注：文中內(nèi)容是Brian Hubbard 整理自 Abha Bhamorabutr所著的《The Story of Chieng Mai》拥知。這本書我沒能在清邁圖書館找到，國(guó)內(nèi)也沒有翻譯出版碎赢，只有一些國(guó)外圖書館顯示有收藏。(已發(fā)郵件告知翻譯的事速梗，但沒回音肮塞，好像這網(wǎng)站也沒有版權(quán)聲明，我查了作者的名字姻锁，只在清邁的一個(gè)論壇中有不相干的提及枕赵。 所以忍不住先斬后奏了。)
哈里奔猜王國(guó)是曾經(jīng)統(tǒng)治清邁地區(qū)的孟族人王國(guó)位隶，首府是在南奔拷窜，后來(lái)被孟萊王所擊敗后，起初遷首府至南邦，隨后國(guó)王被殺篮昧，徹底由孟萊王統(tǒng)治赋荆。Phra Maha Sumana Thera并非哈里奔猜王國(guó)高僧，而是來(lái)自錫蘭懊昨，居于素可泰窄潭，由根納王邀請(qǐng)至清邁之前，曾在雨季暫居于南奔酵颁。
而且Phra Maha Sumana Thera其實(shí)不是這位高僧的名字嫉你，而是一個(gè)用于高等級(jí)僧侶的稱呼，關(guān)于泰國(guó)僧侶等級(jí)的分類及稱呼方式躏惋，可以參見
<Monks’ Ranks and Titles>：http://www.thaibuddhism.net/ranks.htmTilokarat王幽污，也就是那位帶領(lǐng)蘭納王國(guó)走向巔峰，掀起阿育陀耶－蘭納之戰(zhàn)的強(qiáng)勢(shì)國(guó)王簿姨。人家果然霸氣油挥，懶得走路就砸城墻。款熬。深寥。
其實(shí)此種說(shuō)法很有爭(zhēng)議，并沒有準(zhǔn)確的證據(jù)證明贤牛，日軍的確將這座橋的零件拆除惋鹅，用于修建Pai縣那座著名的拍照景點(diǎn)"二戰(zhàn)橋"。但從這種說(shuō)法中可以看出殉簸，泰國(guó)人對(duì)曾經(jīng)被日本控制和我們一樣感到氣憤屈辱闰集，而且城墻被拆掉鋪路的確是事實(shí)。
關(guān)于這一點(diǎn)般卑，可以參見
<The Mystery of Tha Pai Bridge>：http://allaboutpai.com/bridge/
用了一天翻譯武鲁，又用了一天拍照，才終于完成了這篇蝠检。第一次翻譯文章沐鼠，開始后才發(fā)現(xiàn)竟然比自己寫更難，尤其是憑我這種湊合用的蹩腳英語(yǔ)叹谁，好多次都懷疑是費(fèi)力不討好饲梭。但還是覺得必須如此，既然所知道的基本都來(lái)自于它焰檩，就應(yīng)當(dāng)保留原文的模樣憔涉。非常欣賞作者以尋常事物穿起瑣碎歷史的寫法，簡(jiǎn)單清晰是最不容易的析苫，有關(guān)泰國(guó)的英文游記中不乏這樣的好文章兜叨，希望以后我們的中文游記也能多一些類似的吧～ （其實(shí)我的意思是：與其抱怨同胞們的素質(zhì)差穿扳，只知吃喝玩樂購(gòu)物，不如一起補(bǔ)一下逼格国旷。）
我會(huì)繼續(xù)努力整理矛物，但很快就要回國(guó)了，所以歡迎有類似想法的朋友加入進(jìn)來(lái)议街，一同探索這個(gè)擁有迷人歷史和狂野自然的國(guó)度泽谨。
原文：
「The Story of Chieng Mai」
Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
In 1296, King Mengrai established Chiang Mai as the capital of Lanna Kingdom. To protect his new city, he ordered the construction of a perimeter wall and moat. The city layout was based on ancient military and astrological beliefs and, in consultation with King Ramkamhaeng and King Ngum Muang, it was decided that the wall should be laid in a rectangular shape, 900 by 1,000 wah (1,800 x 2,000 metres). The moat surrounding it was to be 18 metres wide. Work commenced on 12thApril 1296 AD and it took 90,000 men 4 months to complete. When it was finished, each wall had one gate and each gate was given a name that related to its location or significance in city life. In his book "The Story of Chieng Mai", Abha Bhamorabutr relates an interesting history of the gates.
The North Gate was called "Hua Vieng Gate" which means the first gate to enter the city. In Thai language "Hua" means head and in northern Thai "Vieng" is a fortified place. Around 1400 AD this name was changed to "Chang Puek", the "White Elephant Gate". Two events in Chiang Mai's history contributed to this change of name. The first occurred in 1386 AD. King Geu-Na, the eighth ruler of Chiang Mai, was the King who introduced Buddhism from Ceylon to Lannathai. Phra Maha Sumana Thera, a priest from Hariphunchai, had presented the King with some Buddha relics and the King wanted to find a holy place to bury them. To determine the most auspicious site, the King had the relics placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant and then set it free. Followed by the King and Phra Sumana, the elephant left the city by the Hua Vieng Gate and walked up Doi Suthep until it came to rest at a spot on the hill that is now the location of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.
The second event happened about 15 years later. King Saen Muang Ma, the son of King Geu-Na, had led his army on an expedition from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai, with the intention of capturing the city kingdom. When they arrived on the outskirts of Sukhothai, it was decided to rest for the night and attack in the morning.However, while the Chiang Mai army was camped outside of Sukhothai preparing itself for the morning attack on the city, they were savagely attacked by the Sukhothai army. This pre-emptive strike caught the tired Chiang Mai army by surprise and they were easily overwhelmed and slaughtered. King Saen Muang Ma only escaped the massacre with his life because of the courage and stamina of his two faithful servants, Obb and Yeraka. They got the King out of the camp and then, because of the rough terrain, took turns to carry him on their shoulders all the way back to Chiang Mai, a distance of some 250 kilometres. Upon his safe return the King was so grateful that he rewarded his servants with money and materials and nominated them to royal ranking as Khun Chang Sai; the left elephant, and Khun Chang Kava; the right elephant. Both Khun Changs lived at Chieng Chom and later at this location the "Two White Elephants" monument was built in their honour.The elephants were originally placed on either side of the road leading to the "Hua Vieng Gate" and the name was then changed to the "White Elephant Gate".
The South Gate was called "Tai Vieng Gate" which means the last gate of the city. At some point in its history, Abha Bhamorabutr doesn't tell us when or why it happened, this became known by its present name of "Chiang Mai Gate".
The East Gate was named "Chiang Ruak Gate" after the nearby village. This changed to "Inner Tha Pae Gate" and then at the end of the 19thcentury, when the "Outer Tha Pae Gate" in the outer earthen embankment near Wat San Fang, was removed, the name was shortened to "Tha Pae Gate". The word "Tha" in Thai means harbour and "Pae" means floating house. Put the two together and you have "Tha Pae"; a harbour full of floating houses. The harbour was on the Mae Ping River near where the Nawarat Bridge now stands. The floating houses were the homescumbusiness premises of the river traders.
The West Gate has always been called "Suan Dok Gate". "Suan" means garden or park and "Dok" is shortened from "Dok Mai"; the Thai word for flower. Not far from this gate, just outside the city walls, there was a royal flower garden full of colourful and fragrant flowers and ponds of clear water. Kings and Rulers of Lannathai would go to the gardens with their families and royal retinue, to relax and enjoy themselves, and occasionally bathe in the ponds. In 1371 AD King Geu-Na dedicated a part of the gardens as a sanctuary for the priest Phra Maha Sumana and it was here that Wat Suan Dok was built.
About 100 years after King Mengrai had completed the walls and gates around Chiang Mai, King Saen Muang Ma added a fifth gate. His wife, Phra Rajathevee didn't want to live inside the city so she had a palace built in the Suan Ra district; an area outside of the southwest corner of the city. Phra Rajathevee used the "Suan Ra" gate almost daily to go to oversee the construction of Chedi Luang. Later in its history, because of a change in the use of the land immediately around the gate, the name was changed from "Suan Ra" to its present name of "Suan Prung". Abha Bhamorabutr explains that in Thai the word "Suan" has two meanings. As a noun "Suan" means garden or park. As a verb "suan" means the action against something, for example to hold a spear in your hand and thrust it into the body of another person.
"Prung" comes from the word "Pung", which in northern Thai means a paunch or belly. At this time in Chiang Mai's history, "Suan Prung Gate" was the place where the execution of rebels was carried out; the manner of execution being to tie the prisoners to a post, thrust a spear into their belly and then leave them to die.
The sixth gate, Chang Moi Gate was built by King Tilokraj who ruled Chiang Mai from 1447-1487 AD. The King considered that it was a long journey from his royal residence to Tha Pae on the Ping River so to shorten the route he had a new gate cut into the wall. This gate was originally called the "Sri Poom Gate" because that was the area of the city in which it was situated. At a later date the name was changed to "Chang Moi Gate". "Chang Moi" in Thai means "sleepy elephant" but, as with the South Gate, Abha Bhamorabutr could find no record of when or why this name-change took place.
Up until the Second World War, the six gates were the only access points into and out of the city and they were focal points of city life; every gate had a market. They were always guarded and were only open from sunrise to sunset. Outside each gate was a bamboo bridge spanning the moat and in times of war these bridges were taken away and the gates firmly closed. Throughout their history the walls and the gates have survived the ravages of time and the onslaught of invading armies through a continuous process of decay and repair. The city gates were restored in 1801, during the reign of Phra Chao Kawila. It was the Japanese in the 1940's, during their occupation of Thailand, who ended an era when they used the bricks from the walls to build a road up to Pai. The Japanese also took spans from the original Nawarat Bridge to make a bridge on that road which you can still see today. The gates and corners were rebuilt once again between 1966-1969.
700 years later, all that remains of King Mengrai's original fortifications are 4 gates; Tha Pae Gate was rebuilt again in 1975, and the 4 corners with it. The walls may mostly be gone but memories of the history of the city live on in the names of these once illustrious portals.
