這次行程基本可以分成幾大塊：

• 文化三角洲
  
• 中部山地茶園
  
• 海灘·古堡
  

文化三角洲（Anuradhapura囤攀，Polonnaruwa之景，Sigiriya）憋沿。

文化三角洲（Culture Triangle）指的是以Anuradhapura逛揩，Polonnaruwa和Sigiriya為首的文化古城區(qū)域跷跪。無數(shù)古跡馋嗜，無數(shù)寺廟存于其中。沒有文化吵瞻，不懂歷史的我只是瞎看看葛菇。

Day2 (2/7/2013) – Anuradhapura

Negombo的清晨，天邊微紅橡羞。

司機還沒來熟呛，和酒店老板娘確認行程，一一寫下尉姨。等了良久庵朝，司機Lucky終于出現(xiàn)，和老板一陣搖頭晃腦后我們上車出發(fā)了又厉。今天的目的地是Anuradhapura九府。

Anuradhapura是一個擁有2500年歷史的古城，在公元前是斯里蘭卡的首都并且持續(xù)了一千年覆致。這么古老的地方侄旬，自然要去膜拜下。

路上路過一座正在修建的印度廟煌妈，Lucky硬要讓我們去看一下儡羔。盛情難卻宣羊，就下車去了。印度廟修建得很新汰蜘，色彩斑斕仇冯，雕刻精美。無奈不知道這個廟的名稱族操，問了保安苛坚，回答了一串我連發(fā)音都困難的詞句。作罷色难，反正知道是一個印度廟泼舱。

來到Anuradhapura，Lucky先帶我們去找住處枷莉。住宿區(qū)主要集中在新城娇昙，新城并不大，路過了網(wǎng)上推薦的Lake View Restore笤妙，又路過了好幾家看起來不錯的旅館涯贞，Lucky就是不停下，來回開了好幾圈危喉，最終在一條小路上彎來彎去停在了一家旅館前宋渔。我進門去問價錢看房間，和老板談價錢的時候一只巨大的蚱蜢從面前爬過……房間設施一般辜限，小花園不錯皇拣，價錢并不便宜，由于不想再挪動薄嫡，我們決定在這里住下氧急，之后再和Lucky溝通。

沒想到在寫這篇游記的時候才發(fā)現(xiàn)毫深，原來這家旅館也是LP推薦的吩坝。但說實話，如果不是包車的話哑蔫，我并不建議住在這里钉寝，因為實在是有點偏。

放下行李先去吃飯闸迷。找了LP推薦的Casserole嵌纲，被同伴戲稱“開塞露”（上海話）。到了一看腥沽，上面寫著中餐逮走！但其實并不是中餐，只是做得有點像中餐而已今阳。我們點了各色炒飯和湯师溅，味道還不錯茅信，即刻被我們指定為晚餐的首選地。

茶足飯飽后出發(fā)去古城墓臭。

頂著烈日蘸鲸，我們的第一站是Isurumuni Rajamaha Viharaya。在LP上的名稱叫做Isurumuniya Vihara起便，門票Rs200每人。

摘錄一段LP中對她的描述：

This rock temple, dating from the reign of Devanampiya Tissa (r 247–207 BC), has some very fine carvings. One or two of these (including one of elephants playfully splashing water) remain in their original place on the rock face beside a square pool fed from the Tissa Wewa, but most of them have been moved into a small museum within the temple. Best known of the sculptures is the ‘lovers’, which dates from around the 5th century AD and is built in the artistic style of the Indian Gupta dynasty of the 4th and 5th centuries. There is a lovely lotus pond in front.

這座寺廟原本不在我們的計劃中窖维，應該說榆综，因為我們原本對于這座古城也沒有詳細的計劃，于是任憑Lucky帶著我們去了這個寺廟乡恕。寺廟里人煙稀少腕窥，現(xiàn)在回想起來这吻，滾燙的沙地和痛徹心肺的腳底心給于我的記憶遠遠大于了這個寺廟原本能夠給我的印象。于是只記得古老的磚墻判沟，里面一個巨大的臥佛，以及廟外一個充滿叫聲的蝙蝠洞崭篡。來之前只看到人家攻略上寫午后地上十分燙挪哄，可從來沒有人能寫赤腳踩在地上被石子咯得是有多痛！在此提醒將要去的同學們琉闪，如果你們本身身體不是特別強壯健康的話迹炼，請注意帶上一雙襪子，會減輕很多腳底板按摩后帶來的劇痛颠毙。

Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba是第二站斯入。同樣摘錄一段LP中的描述以作補充：

Behind the Folk Museum, this fi ne white dagoba is guarded by a wall with a frieze of hundreds of elephants standing shoulder to shoulder. Apart from a few beside the western entrance, most are modern replacements for the originals from 140 BC.

This dagoba is said to be King Dutugemunu’s finest construction, but he didn’t live to see its completion. However, as he lay on his deathbed, a false bamboo-and-cloth finish was placed around the dagoba so that Dutugemunu’s fi nal sight could be of his ‘completed’ masterpiece. Today, after incurring much damage from invading Indian forces, it rises 55m, considerably less than its original height; nor is its form the same as the earlier ‘bubble’ shape. A limestone statue south of the great dagoba is popularly thought to be of Dutugemunu. The land around the dagoba is rather like a pleasant green park, dotted with patches of ruins, the remains of ponds and pools, and collections of columns and pillars, all picturesquely leaning in diff erent directions.

Slightly southeast of the dagoba you can see one of Anuradhapura’s many monks’ refectories. Keeping such a large number of monks fed and happy was a full-time job for the lay followers.

Dagoba在中文中是舍利塔的意思，里面真的有舍利么蛀蜜？嘿嘿刻两。

進入這座塔的路上能看到很多動物，比如四處流竄的猴子滴某，肆意躺坐的小狗磅摹，盤旋飛舞的烏鴉，還有優(yōu)雅漫步的白鶴霎奢。繞著白塔轉了一圈偏瓤，繼續(xù)抵御著腳底板的疼痛。一路上一直有一只小小狗跟著我們椰憋，時不時過來蹭蹭以示友好厅克，小黑和它玩了好久，它很開心橙依，似乎已經(jīng)很久沒有人這么跟它玩耍了证舟。走到一個佛像前硕旗，一只猴子居然在吃供品，無人管束女责，倒也平常漆枚。白塔的另一端，幾個虔誠的教徒在佛塔前安靜地跪拜抵知，無聲無息墙基。一切都是那么寧靜，除了我時不時發(fā)出痛苦的呻吟……

出了Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba刷喜，去看著名的大菩提樹残制。終于可以穿上鞋子沿著大路走了。

路上路過Brazen Palace（So called because it once had a bronze roof, the ruins of the Brazen Palace stand close to the bodhi tree. The remains of 1600 columns are all that is left of this huge palace, said to have had nine storeys and accommodation for 1000 monks and attendants. It was originally built by Dutugemunu more than 2000 years ago, but through the ages was rebuilt many times, each time a little less grandiosely. The current stand of pillars (now fenced off ) is all that remains from the last rebuild – that of Parakramabahu around the 12th century.）掖疮。

當時并不是它如此有名初茶，因而沒有進入，連照片也沒有好好拍一張浊闪。憾恼布。

再往里便是著名的大菩提樹Sri Maha Bodhi。另收門票200Rs/人搁宾。

The Sri Maha Bodhi, the sacred bodhi tree, is central to Anuradhapura in both a spiritual and physical sense. The huge tree has grown from a cutting brought from Bodhgaya in India by the Princess Sangamitta, sister of Mahinda (who introduced the Buddha’s teachings to Sri Lanka), so it has a connection to the geographical heart of the Sinhalese religion. The sacred bodhi tree is the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world; it has been tended by an uninterrupted succession of guardians for over 2000 years, even during the periods of Indian occupation. There is not one but many bodhi trees here; the oldest and holiest stands on the top platform. The steps leading up to the tree’s platform are very old, but the golden railing around it is quite modern. The railing and other structures around the trees are festooned with prayer fl ags. Thousands of devotees come to make off erings at weekends and particularly on poya (full-moon) days. April and December are particularly busy months as pilgrims converge on the site for snana puja (off erings or prayers).

進入菩提樹大院男女分開通道折汞，當時的我腳底板已經(jīng)痛到不行，真沒有勇氣再赤腳走進去了盖腿，在同伴的鼓勵下字支，一步一歪艱難緩慢地來到菩提樹下，去發(fā)現(xiàn)菩提樹被圍起來奸忽，只能仰望堕伪，連摸一下都不能……這就是已經(jīng)長了2000年的那棵神奇的樹么？好像正好碰到當?shù)厝藢χ刑針湔b經(jīng)祈福的時候栗菜，很多人端坐著或雙膝跪地欠雌，一起念誦著我們聽不懂的字句，在這種氣氛中疙筹，我們也安靜地坐下富俄，默默聆聽，感受著這種虔誠的氛圍而咆。

從菩提樹出來霍比，我們告訴Lucky不要每個景點都帶我們去了，我們只想再去看看Moonstone暴备。為啥呢悠瞬？因為它是LP上的Top Choice之一嘛~ 是不是有點太迷信LP了？呵呵。

在去Moonstone的路上浅妆，一不小心又路過一個小景點望迎，就是Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds)，皇家浴池凌外。

The swimming-pool-like Twin Ponds, the fi nest bathing tanks in Anuradhapura, are east of Sanghamitta Mawatha. They were likely used by monks from the monastery attached to Abhayagiri Dagoba. Although they are referred to as twins, the southern pond, which is 28m in length, is smaller than the 40m long northern pond. Water entered the larger pond through the mouth of a makara (mythical multispecies beast) and then flowed to the smaller pond through an underground pipe. Note the five-headed cobra figure close to the makara and the water-filter system at the northwestern end of the ponds.

其實吧辩尊，就是兩個同樣大小的方形池子，水面泛著幽幽的綠色康辑，沒什么特別摄欲，特別的應該就是他的故事而已。

期間還路過了正在修繕的Abhayagiri Dagoba疮薇。舍利塔好像都長得差不多胸墙，只不過這個不是白色的，而是黃褐色惦辛。

The huge Abhayagiri Dagoba (confused by some books and maps with the Jetavanarama), created in the 1st or 2nd century BC, was the centrepiece of a monastery of 5000 monks. The name means ‘Hill of Protection’ or ‘Fearless Hill’ (though some local guides mistakenly claim ‘Giri’ was the name of a local Jain monk). The monastery was part of the ‘School of the Secret Forest’, a heretical sect that studied both Mahayana and Theravada Buddhism. Chinese traveller Faxian (also spelt Fa Hsien) visited in AD 412. The dagoba was probably rebuilt several times to reach its peak 75m height. It has some interesting bas-reliefs, including one near the western stairway of an elephant pulling up a tree. A large slab with a Buddha footprint can be seen on the northern side, and the eastern and western steps have unusual moonstones made from concentric stone slabs.

還有Samadhi Buddha劳秋。

After your investigations of guardstones and moonstones, you can continue east from the Abhayagiri to this 4th-century statue, seated in the meditation pose and regarded as one of the fi nest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka. Pandit Nehru, a prominent leader in India’s independence movement, is said to have maintained his composure while imprisoned by the British by regular contemplation of a photo of this statue.

回來后看了下地圖仓手，發(fā)現(xiàn)Lucky還挺能給我們順道看景點的胖齐，哈哈~

終于，我們在黃昏時分來到了Moonstone嗽冒。

A ruined 9th-century school for monks northwest of the Abhayagiri Dagoba is notable for having the finest carved moonstone in Sri Lanka; see how many species of animals you can find in its elaborate carvings. This is a peaceful wooded area full of butterflies, and makes a good place to stop and cool off during a tour of the ruins. It is often falsely described as Mahasena’s Palace or the Queen’s Pavilion. Look for the fine steps featuring plump little figures.

月亮石的雕刻堪稱精美呀伙，月石的外圍雕刻呈火焰狀,中間刻著獅子、大象和牛等動物造型,內圈則是刻著象征人類欲望的藤草添坊。

參觀完Moonstone剿另，這一天的行程終于結束了。在回酒店的路上路過一個湖贬蛙，應該是Thissa Wewa雨女。正碰上日落時分，人們在夕陽下的湖中洗澡游水玩耍阳准，映著落日余輝氛堕，天邊出現(xiàn)變幻莫測的晚霞，忽然發(fā)現(xiàn)野蝇，這才是一天中的亮點讼稚。

附一天線路圖如下。