1770 - 1789
MACARONI TO DANDY
The 1770s saw the final flicker of flamboyant male fashion.
Earlier in the century, the term “macaroni” had been coined for young men who affected fussy foreign dress and grooming (other labels were “fop,” “exquisite,” and elegant in France).
The name seems to have come from the informal Macaroni Club, made up of young gentlemen back from their Grand Tour, much of it spent in pasta-loving Italy.
Then, toward the end of the century, powered wigs fell from favor and the colored frock coat, based on English sporting dress, became popular.
The inspiration for men’s fashion had begun to move from France to England, from formal city to relaxed country, and (during the Age of Enlightenment) from the worship of rank to the belief in democracy.
This was reflected in simpler, subtler styles-fashionable men of the time, tastefully free from macaroni excesses, were known as “dandies”.
公元1770 - 1789年
從MACARONI到DANDY
十八世紀(jì)70年代,展示了男性時(shí)尚最終的華麗閃耀。
在世紀(jì)初宝冕,macaroni通心粉(一種高聳入云甚至有些滑稽的流行發(fā)型)一詞是為那些被外來服飾以及梳妝打扮影響的年輕男子創(chuàng)造的,其他類似的標(biāo)簽還有fop紈褲子弟瞬项,exquisite講究人士以及法式優(yōu)雅。
這個(gè)名字似乎來自非正式macaroni俱樂部何荚,由那些從大城市回來的年輕紳士組成囱淋,其大部分時(shí)間都呆在意大利。
之后到世紀(jì)末餐塘,力量感假發(fā)熱度跌落妥衣,基于英式運(yùn)動服的frock彩色套裝變得流行起來。
男裝靈感來源已從法式轉(zhuǎn)向英式唠倦,從正統(tǒng)城市轉(zhuǎn)到休閑城市称鳞,從崇拜秩序到信仰民主。
這都反映在更簡潔稠鼻,更細(xì)微的時(shí)尚風(fēng)格麗冈止,男人們高雅地?cái)[脫了macaroni時(shí)期,我們稱之“花花公子”候齿。