THE ANCIENT WORLD FASHION ICON
Queen Nefertiti
The Egyptian Queen Nefertiti -- whose name translates as "a beautiful woman has come" -- is famed for possessing both political influence and great beauty.
She was the wife of Akhenaten (named after his worship of the sun disk, Aten), who reigned over 18th-dynasty Ancient Egypt in the 14th century BCE, during the New Kingdom era, and created a glittering city at Amarna.
Nefertiti's allure is heightened by mystery -- she seems to have disappeared without trace and theories abound about her fate.
Dressing a goddess
Contemporary statues and reliefs depict a woman with a striking face, and some show a curvaceous form highlighted by clinging garments.
Such images would have been idealized according to the era's spiritual values.
Nefertiti (along with her six daughters) would have constituted a living fertility goddess, emphasized by those images that portray her as wide hipped or in tight clothes;
surviving evidence suggests that contemporary garments were in fact looser than depicted.
Nefertiti's clothing trademarks include a distinctive tall, straight-sided and flat-topped crown worn exclusively by her (left).
Her garments were in the fine, pleated linen worn by New Kingdom royals and often depicted as being so fine that it became transparent - an aid to showing off the divine body.
The linen was probably thicker in reality.
Image of Nefetiti show how Egyptian linen lent itself to draping, folding, and well-defined pleating.
Ancient Egyptian styles remained similar for centuries, but during the 18th dynasty in which Nefertiti lived, a more complex draping of larger pieces of fabric developed (alongside the basic kalasaris sheath).
Nefertiti is depicted wearing long, fine tunics draped in ways typical of New Kingdom times.
Frequently the material's gathering appears to center on one point, often close to the bust, creating a distinctive high-waisted shape;
she appears with and without sleeves.
A famous painted limestone statue of the royal couple, hand in hand, from around 1340BCE, shows Nefertiti in a long, pleated linen tunic (often called a haik), caught between the waist and bust, gathered to produce undefined sleeves, and clinging especially closely to the lower body.
Since dyeing linen is difficult and it was the staple fiber, Egyptian clothing tends to be white.
Rich color was added with accessories by most levels of society.
An icon for the modern age
More than 3,500 years have elapsed yet Nefertiti and all things Egyptian continue to insprie today's designers.
The seminal blue-crowned bust (FAR LEFT) was unearthed in 1912 and made its way to Berlin's Egyptian Museum, where it remains.
Upon its Berlin unveiiling, in 1923, this arresting image had an immediate impact on the public, cementing a fascination for all things Egyptian that had been fired the year before by the discovery of the tomb of boy-pharaoh Tutankhamun.
"Egyptomania" gripped fashion design of the Art Deco era, from scarab jewelry to flowing, draped dresses, exotic embroidery, pyramid and lotus-flower motifs, dramatic deep headbands, and a love of Nile-green and bright blues.
There was even a mummy wrap dress in the 1920s, an idea interpreted afresh in the skintight bandage dresses of the 2000s.
Flappers' love of dark hair, red lips, and darkly outlined eyes was part of Egyptomania, and would most likely have been encouraged by Nefertiti's famed bust.
--《The definitive history of costume and style》
時(shí)尚大拿奈費(fèi)爾提蒂
埃及王后奈費(fèi)爾提蒂 -- 名字的意思就是“一位美人走來了“ -- 她是古埃及歷史上著名的兼具絕世美貌與權(quán)利地位的野心家玄组。
她是奧克亨拿坦法老（以他們崇拜的太陽神Aken給自己命名的法老）的妻子俄讹，是公元前十四世紀(jì)古埃及第18個(gè)王朝的共同統(tǒng)治者绕德，他們建立了一個(gè)新的王朝和一座耀眼的城市阿瑪那。
奈費(fèi)爾提蒂的魅力在于她是一個(gè)難以解開的謎 -- 她似乎某一天突然消失歷史上沒有留下任何與她身世有關(guān)的記載踪蹬。
女神服飾
那個(gè)時(shí)期的雕像和浮雕向我們展示埃及女性精致的臉龐臣咖，還有在緊身衣包裹下的美麗曲線。
這些畫面根據(jù)當(dāng)時(shí)的時(shí)代精神被刻意理想化了疚漆。
奈費(fèi)爾提蒂（和她的六個(gè)女兒）被生動(dòng)地描繪成了生育女神的樣子，這些圖像著重強(qiáng)調(diào)他們寬大的臀部或者緊身的線條闻镶。
現(xiàn)存的證據(jù)告訴我們丸升，當(dāng)時(shí)真正的服裝實(shí)際上比描繪的要寬松得多。
奈費(fèi)爾提蒂的服飾標(biāo)志顿涣，是一頂獨(dú)特的高的酝豪，兩側(cè)直邊頂部平整的皇冠。
她的服裝是由專為新王國皇室所特制的精細(xì)壓褶亞麻制成的蒲障，這些亞麻布服裝質(zhì)非常精細(xì)瘫证，以至于后來在很多作品中人們刻意將它描繪得輕薄如同透明，用來顯示法老尊貴神圣的身體毙籽。
而真實(shí)的亞麻會更厚些毡庆。
奈費(fèi)爾提蒂向我們展示了埃及人服裝的裁剪狀態(tài)么抗，折疊方式和輪廓清晰的褶皺。
古古埃及風(fēng)格沿襲了數(shù)百年螟加，但在奈費(fèi)爾提蒂的第十八代王朝中吞琐，一個(gè)更復(fù)雜利用更大片面料懸掛制成的款式出現(xiàn)了。
納費(fèi)爾提蒂式的精細(xì)長袍是新王朝時(shí)代最典型的著裝黍图。
常見的做法是將面料聚攏在中間一個(gè)點(diǎn)上卒蘸，靠近胸部翻默，從而創(chuàng)造處一個(gè)獨(dú)特的高腰款式恰起；
她的服裝一邊有袖一邊無袖。
有一副著名的皇室夫婦石灰?guī)r雕像检盼，手牽著手吨枉，大約公元前1340年，展示了奈費(fèi)爾提蒂穿著打褶的亞麻長袍（通常稱它Haik）貌亭，觀察腰部和胸部的細(xì)節(jié)圃庭，我們可以看到被聚攏的面料蓋過手臂成為袖子，而下半身是被刻畫的非常緊身的拘央。
由于亞麻染色的困難书在，而它又是當(dāng)時(shí)主產(chǎn)的纖維，所以埃及的服裝通常都是白的栏账。
豐富的顏色被添加到了配飾上义矛，這也代表了當(dāng)時(shí)社會的最高層級。
現(xiàn)代偶像
3500年過去了捻激，奈費(fèi)爾提蒂和埃及人的一切依舊啟發(fā)著當(dāng)今的設(shè)計(jì)師們。
開創(chuàng)性的藍(lán)色皇冠半身像于1912年出土垃杖，之后被送到柏林埃及博物館丈屹，保存了下來伶棒。
直到1923年彩库，這尊半身像被揭幕骇钦，醒目的視覺沖擊立刻影響了所有人，這種凝結(jié)了對古埃及萬物的迷戀一直持續(xù)到少年法老圖坦卡蒙的陵墓被發(fā)現(xiàn)眯搭。
“egyptomania"埃及復(fù)興抓住了裝飾藝術(shù)時(shí)代的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)鳞仙，從圣甲蟲珠寶，垂褶連身裙幔荒，異國刺繡梳玫，金字塔和蓮花圖案，戲劇化的頭帶姚垃，以及對尼羅河綠還有亮藍(lán)色的愛盼忌。
甚至一個(gè)1920年出現(xiàn)了木乃包裹裙，到了本世紀(jì)初又被重新詮釋成一種新的緊身綁帶禮服裙看成。
時(shí)髦女郎們喜歡”egyptomania"埃及復(fù)興里的黑色頭發(fā)跨嘉，紅色嘴唇祠乃，描黑的眼線，并且這種喜愛最大的可能是受到奈費(fèi)爾提蒂的半身像影響琴拧。
