1870 - 1879
SOFT BUSTLES AND FISHTAILS
Fashions by the 1870s were softer and more delicate, with pastel coloring and frivolous trimmings and decoration.
Bodice necklines were square, with exposed décolleté for evening.
Dresses had three-quarter-length sleeves with lace cuffs, or could be sleeveless for evening wear.
Aided by the sewing machine (now becoming a desirable acquisition for home use), fabric was draped and layered around the hips, creating an overskirt with apron and panniers that was supported in the small of the back by a straw or horsehair understructure, called a soft bustle.
By 1875 colors were deeper, a more streamlined shape was emerging, with a smoothly fitted bodice, and the waist and hips were more defined.
By 1876 dresses were shaped in a Princess line (with an all-in-one princess petticoat), often with a cuirass over bodice.
The upper fullness of earlier skirts had moved lower at the back, forming a fishtail train that was delightful to look at but complex to create and needed skill to manage.
SOFT BUSTLES
To support the fullness at the top of the skirt at the back, a framework known as a soft bustle was worn.
This could be made from a variety of materials, including meshed horsehair, wadding, and straw, or even improvised with scrunched-up newspaper.
The example shown comprises covered watch spring steel, half hoop cording for the lower skirt, moire fabric, and a wavy baited outline along the hem.
It fastens at the front of the body with buttons.
1870 - 1879年
柔軟臀襯與魚尾
十九世紀(jì)70年代的時(shí)尚更柔軟更細(xì)膩，搭配柔和的色彩，輕浮的飾邊與裝飾车胡。
上身領(lǐng)口是矩形的评疗，晚上會(huì)將領(lǐng)口拉低。
禮服有七分袖帶蕾絲的款式，也有無袖晚裝的款式继控。
有了縫紉機(jī)的協(xié)助（當(dāng)時(shí)已成為家庭使用的理想購(gòu)置物）械馆，面料被立體裁剪并分層在臀部周圍，創(chuàng)造了一種由罩裙和由稻草或馬毛做底層支撐的裙撐框架組合起來的款式武通，稱之為柔軟臀襯霹崎。
1875年的色系越來越深，外形越來越流暢冶忱，剪裁合身尾菇，腰部與臀部也更加凸顯。
1876年的禮服開始靠公主線塑造外形（里部搭配一體式的公主襯裙）囚枪。
早期裙裝臀部豐滿派诬，后背下部移動(dòng)較為緩慢，形成一條長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)魚尾后擺链沼，外觀看來起來非常迷人但是制作復(fù)雜并且需要一定技巧來駕馭默赂。
臀部襯墊
為了支撐裙裝后背頂部的豐滿感覺，人們佩戴一種被稱之為臀襯的笨拙框架括勺。
它可以由各種材料制作而成缆八，包括尺狀馬毛，稻草朝刊，各種填充物耀里，甚至還有將報(bào)紙揉成一團(tuán)的蜈缤。
圖例所示的裙襯包括彈簧鋼拾氓，用于裙擺邊緣的半環(huán)箍，波紋織物以及下擺的波浪輪廓底哥。
它以紐扣固定在身體前面咙鞍。
