Fifty years of fashion
?No history of fashion in the years 1960 to 2010 can overlook or underestimate two constant factors: jeans and the rise and fall of hemlines for women’s skirts and dresses.
? Denim, the textile which jeans are made of, was known in France in the late 16th century, but it was Levi Strauss who saw that mine workers in the Californian gold rush in the mid-19th century needed strong trousers, which he reinforced with metal pins. Blue denim jeans remained popular in the US as work clothes until the 1950s, but then became associated with youth, new ideas, resistance to authority and independent thinking.?When Levi Strauss & Co began to export blue jeans to Europe and Asia in the late 1950s, they were bought and worn with huge enthusiasm by a large proportion of young people and recognized as a symbol of the young, informal American way of life.
?Hemlines have a more peculiar significance during this period. There is consensus among fashion editors that there is a precise relation, with only a few exceptions, between the length of women’s skirts and the economy. As the stock market rises, so do hemlines, and conversely, when it falls, so do they. Exactly why women should want to expose or conceal bare legs during periods of economic boom and bust remains a mystery. But the general trend is clear. Whenever the economic outlook is troublesome, the convention is for both men and women to wear more conservative clothes.
? Perhaps the most important development in fashion in the 1960s was the miniskirt, invented by the British designer Mary Quant. Because Quant worked in the heart of Swinging London, the miniskirt developed into a major international fashion. It attracted greater respect when the great French designer, Courrèges, imported it into his range of clothes and developed it into an item of high fashion. But it would not have achieved such international currency without the development of tights, instead of stockings, because the rise in hemlines meant the stocking tops would be visible.
? The hippie movement of the mid-1960s and?early 1970s influenced the design of jeans, with?the trouser leg developing a “bell-bottom” style.?By the mid-1970s, as the economy grew worse,?hemlines descended to midi or medium (mid-calf)?length and maxi (ankle length), while jeans were?no longer limited to blue.
?Jeans remained fashionable during the period?of punk, usually worn ripped, often with badges,?chains and belts with metal ornaments, and pierced?ears and noses. The look lasted for several years,?although became more and more restricted to small?groups of inner-city young people, and had little?influence on other age groups.
?? As a reaction to punk, the New Romantics was?a fashion movement which occurred in British?clubs. It was eye-catching and featured fancy shirts?and blouses. Jeans were definitely not acceptable.
? The mid-1980s saw the rise of a number of different styles. Power dressing was characterized by smart executive suits and, for the newly?empowered women, shoulder pads and knee-length?skirts. Not surprisingly, the economy wasn’t stable, and people took less risks in what they wore. For men, the Miami Vice style, named after the television series, made use of smart T-shirts under designer jackets, and three or four days of beard growth. But as always, denim remained popular with the young. In particular, heavy metal music fans wore ripped jeans and denim jackets.
? Gradually hemlines started to rise again ... until the world stock market crash in 1987. So the late 1980s in the US saw the rise of the more conservative style called Preppy style, with classic clothes by Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers for men, button-down shirts, casual trousers and shoes, with a sweater tied in a loose knot around the neck. They also wore jeans, but either brand-new or clean and smartly pressed – not at all what Levi Strauss originally intended.
? As the world economies bounced back again?in the 1990s, fashion for young people became?more daring. Boots and Converse or Nike trainers?remained popular, but the most common colours?became olive green and oatmeal. Hair was worn?long, or cut short and dyed blue, green or red.?Hoodies, baseball caps and loose jeans, which?were often fastened low below the backside, were?common on the streets.
Then in January 2000 the New York technology stock market collapsed. As usual, so did hemlines, which were described by one commentator as “the prim and proper look is in. Skirts should be below the knee.” But merely one year later, the stock market began to rally, and the miniskirt returned. Lower limbs were more exposed than they had been for many years.
?? During this period, it was unusual to wear formal clothes unless you were at work. Designer jeans gained huge popularity. These were made of the traditional denim, perhaps with extra stretch fibre added, but cut and marketed under well-known brands such as Armani, Hugo Boss and Moschino, who until recently had only concerned themselves with the smartest fashion lines. Narrow jeans also became popular in Britain and most of Europe. Skirt length is uncertain, ranging from micro to “sensible” – knee-length or just below.
? Sometimes hemlines can even predict a change in the mood of the stock market long before it actually happens. In September 2007, at the New York fashion shows, which were displaying their styles for spring 2008, the trend was for much longer dresses and skirts, many to midcalf or even down to the ankles. Some people felt this showed that the hemline indicator was no longer reliable, and that designers no longer dictated what people would wear. During the London and New York fashion shows in September 2008, hemlines continued to drop. But sure enough, in the fall of 2008, the stock market indexes crashed when the banking crisis hit the US, Europe and then the rest of the world. Hemlines were no longer following the stock market – they were showing the way and indicating future economic trends.
?During the whole period, fashion styles have?ranged widely, and have usually been sparked?off by a desire to identify people as belonging to?a particular sub-culture. But the constant factors?over this period are denim and hemlines and?the greatest influences have been a 19th-century?Californian clothes manufacturer and a young?designer in the Swinging London of the 1960s.
1. 1960年至2010年間的時尚史不能忽視或低估兩個恒定因素：牛仔褲以及女性裙子和連衣裙的裙邊的興衰。
2.牛仔布制成的牛仔布在16世紀(jì)后期在法國廣為人知，但是Levi Strauss看到19世紀(jì)中葉加州淘金熱中的礦工需要堅固的褲子壹若，他對此進(jìn)行了加固
用金屬別針奈虾。
藍(lán)色牛仔牛仔褲一直作為工作服在美國流行，直到1950年代塔粒，但隨后與年輕人及老，新思想，抵抗權(quán)威和獨(dú)立思考聯(lián)系在一起葵陵。
1950年代后期，Levi Strauss＆Co開始向歐洲和亞洲出口藍(lán)色牛仔褲時瞻佛，很大一部分年輕人就以極大的熱情購買和穿著藍(lán)色牛仔褲脱篙，并被認(rèn)為是美國年輕娇钱，非正式的生活方式的象征。
3.在此期間绊困，下擺的意義更為特殊文搂。
時裝編輯一致認(rèn)為，除了裙子的長度和經(jīng)濟(jì)性之間有確切的聯(lián)系秤朗，只有少數(shù)例外煤蹭。
隨著股票市場的上漲，邊線也隨之上升取视，反之硝皂，當(dāng)其下跌時，它們也一樣作谭。
在經(jīng)濟(jì)繁榮和蕭條時期稽物，婦女為什么要裸露或隱藏裸露的腿，這仍然是一個謎折欠。
但是總體趨勢是明確的贝或。
每當(dāng)經(jīng)濟(jì)前景困難時，慣例就是男人和女人都應(yīng)該穿更保守的衣服锐秦。
4.也許1960年代時裝界最重要的發(fā)展是由英國設(shè)計師Mary Quant發(fā)明的迷你裙傀缩。
由于Quant在Swinging London的心臟地帶工作，因此迷你裙發(fā)展成為一種主要的國際時尚农猬。
當(dāng)法國偉大的設(shè)計師Courrèges將其導(dǎo)入他的服裝系列并將其開發(fā)為高級時裝時赡艰，它引起了更大的尊重。
但是斤葱，如果沒有緊身衣而不是長筒襪的發(fā)展慷垮，它就不可能實(shí)現(xiàn)這樣的國際貨幣，因?yàn)榈走叺脑黾右馕吨L筒襪是可見的揍堕。
5. 1960年代中期和1970年代初的嬉皮運(yùn)動影響了牛仔褲的設(shè)計料身，褲腳發(fā)展為“喇叭褲式”風(fēng)格。
到1970年代中期衩茸，隨著經(jīng)濟(jì)的惡化芹血，下擺下降到中長（中小腿）和中長（踝長），而牛仔褲不再局限于藍(lán)色楞慈。
6.朋克時期的牛仔褲仍然很時髦幔烛，通常破破爛爛，經(jīng)常帶有徽章囊蓝，帶有金屬飾品的鏈和皮帶饿悬，以及耳洞和鼻孔。
這種外觀持續(xù)了幾年聚霜，盡管越來越多地局限于城市中的一小部分年輕人狡恬，并且對其他年齡段的人幾乎沒有影響珠叔。
7.作為對朋克的一種反應(yīng)，《新浪漫主義者》是一場流行運(yùn)動弟劲，發(fā)生在英國的俱樂部中祷安。
這是引人注目的，特色化奇的襯衫和上衣兔乞。
牛仔褲絕對不能接受辆憔。
8. 1980年代中期，出現(xiàn)了許多不同的樣式报嵌。
動力裝扮的特點(diǎn)是巧妙的行政套裝，而對于剛剛獲得權(quán)能的女性熊榛，則是肩墊和及膝裙锚国。
毫不奇怪，經(jīng)濟(jì)不穩(wěn)定玄坦，人們所穿的衣服所承受的風(fēng)險較小血筑。
對于男性，以電視連續(xù)劇的名字命名的Miami Vice風(fēng)格使用了設(shè)計師外套下的巧妙T恤煎楣，以及三到四天的胡須生長豺总。
但與往常一樣，牛仔布在年輕人中仍然很受歡迎择懂。
特別是重金屬音樂迷穿著破爛的牛仔褲和牛仔夾克喻喳。
9.逐漸增加的裙邊……直到1987年世界股市崩盤。所以在1980年代后期困曙，美國出現(xiàn)了一種更為保守的風(fēng)格表伦，稱為Preppy風(fēng)格，其中包括Ralph Lauren和Brooks Brothers的經(jīng)典服裝慷丽。
蹦哼，紐扣襯衫，休閑長褲和鞋子要糊，并在脖子上系松結(jié)的毛衣纲熏。
他們還穿牛仔褲，但要么是全新的锄俄，要么是干凈利落的壓制–根本不符合Levi Strauss的初衷局劲。
10.隨著世界經(jīng)濟(jì)在1990年代再次反彈，年輕人的時尚變得更加大膽奶赠。
靴子和匡威或耐克運(yùn)動鞋仍然很受歡迎容握，但最常見的顏色變成了橄欖綠色和燕麥片。
頭發(fā)很長车柠，或者剪短了剔氏，染成藍(lán)色塑猖，綠色或紅色。
連帽衫谈跛，棒球帽和寬松的牛仔褲通常固定在背面的下方羊苟，在大街上很常見。
11.然后感憾，2000年1月蜡励，紐約科技股票市場崩潰。
像通常一樣阻桅，下擺也是如此凉倚，一位評論員將其描述為“外觀優(yōu)美而適當(dāng)。裙子應(yīng)在膝蓋以下嫂沉』”
但是僅僅一年后，股票市場開始反彈趟章，超短裙又回來了杏糙。
下肢比許多年來暴露更多。
12.在此期間蚓土，除非您上班宏侍，否則不穿正式服裝。
設(shè)計師牛仔褲廣受歡迎蜀漆。
它們由傳統(tǒng)的牛仔布制成谅河，也許還添加了額外的彈力纖維，但以Armani确丢，Hugo Boss和Moschino等知名品牌裁剪和銷售旧蛾，直到最近他們才關(guān)注最聰明的時尚系列。
窄牛仔褲在英國和歐洲大部分地區(qū)也很流行蠕嫁。
裙長不確定锨天，范圍從微小到“合理” –膝長或略短。
13.有時剃毒，波動甚至可以預(yù)測股市情緒的變化病袄，而遠(yuǎn)未真正發(fā)生。
2007年9月赘阀，在紐約時裝秀上益缠，他們展示了2008年春季的款式，趨勢是長得多的裙子和裙子基公，很多到中小腿幅慌，甚至到腳踝。
有人認(rèn)為這表明下擺線指示器不再可靠轰豆，設(shè)計師也不再規(guī)定人們穿什么衣服胰伍。
在2008年9月的倫敦和紐約時裝秀期間齿诞，裙邊繼續(xù)下降。
但可以肯定的是骂租，在2008年秋天祷杈，銀行危機(jī)席卷了美國，歐洲以及世界其他地方渗饮，導(dǎo)致股市指數(shù)暴跌但汞。
Hemlines不再關(guān)注股票市場，而是在顯示道路并指明未來的經(jīng)濟(jì)趨勢互站。
14.在整個時期私蕾，時尚風(fēng)格的范圍廣泛，通常是由于人們希望將人們確定為屬于特定亞文化而點(diǎn)燃胡桃。
但是踩叭，在此期間，牛仔布和下擺的固定因素是最大的影響因素是19世紀(jì)的加利福尼亞服裝制造商和1960年代搖擺倫敦的年輕設(shè)計師标捺。
