1380 - 1450
REGIONAL FLAIR
The 15th century saw an eclectic mix of regional styles and the beginnings of pants.
For men, the fitted cote (tunic) became even shorter.
It was worn on its own or underneath long outer farments called houppelandes, using vast amouts of fabric and bringing back wide sleeves.
Clothing became more vivid as dyeing and weaving improved.
At the same time black grew more fashionable, expecially for the middle classes, who spent more and more on clothes.
Better wools led to the craze for cutting raw edges as decoration and fur use reached its peak.
Individual hose legs were stitched together to create full - bottomed hose - a key development and the origin of today's pants.
Headgear offered variety -- high felt cones, draped cloth chaperons and hoods, wide - brimmed straw hats, and large silk and fur bonnets.
Sleeve shapes also grew more inventive.
FURS IN GREAT DEMAND
The little Ice Age made temperatures in Europe dip in the 14th century.
Demand for fur clothing was huge; sometimes up to 2,000 animals were used in one garment.
Most luxury furs came from Russia: ermine, a stoat's winter coat; sable, a brown or black weasel fur; and brown marten skins.
Cheaper local furs were budge (lambs' wool), coney (rabbit or hare), fox, and wolf.
The 14th-century Italian merchants above inspecting vair (winter squirrel fur) have the same fur lining their hoods.
Furs had heraldic meanings and painter too represented them with stylized patterns.
公元1380 - 1450年
獨(dú)領(lǐng)風(fēng)騷
在十五世紀(jì)你能看到一種不拘一格的混搭區(qū)域風(fēng)格训挡,并且褲子在此時(shí)出現(xiàn)了鸳劳。
對(duì)男性來說督勺,合身的袍子變得更短了女阀。
它可以單獨(dú)穿著湖员,也可以當(dāng)做胡普蘭衫的打底,一種使用大量面料的服裝嘴高,并且寬袖又重新流行起來竿音。
由于染色與編織技術(shù)的改進(jìn),服裝變得更加生動(dòng)了拴驮。
幾乎在同一時(shí)間春瞬,黑色變得時(shí)髦,特別在中產(chǎn)階層套啤,他們花費(fèi)更多更多錢在穿著上宽气。
更好品質(zhì)的羊毛使得人們對(duì)原始感的邊緣裝飾狂熱起來,它令毛皮的運(yùn)用達(dá)到頂峰潜沦。
單腿的褲襪被縫合在一起變成連褲襪萄涯,這是當(dāng)今褲子的重要發(fā)展點(diǎn)和起源。
頭飾提供各種變化 -- 有高錐形帽唆鸡,伴隨垂墜面料和兜帽涝影,寬闊形 -- 有寬邊稻草帽子,大絲巾包頭以及毛皮蘇格蘭帽争占。
袖子的廓形也多了許多變化燃逻。
毛皮時(shí)代
十四世紀(jì)在小冰河時(shí)代影響下,歐洲溫度下降伯襟。
毛皮服裝需求巨大猿涨;有時(shí)一件衣服要用到多達(dá)2000只的動(dòng)物。
大多數(shù)奢華的毛皮料來自俄羅斯:白貂姆怪,一種鼬鼠皮毛用來作冬裝外套叛赚;黑貂,一種棕色或黑色的鼬鼠皮毛片效;以及棕色貂皮红伦。
更便宜的本地毛皮料有羊羔,兔子淀衣,狐貍以及狼昙读。
十四世紀(jì)的意大利商人以vair冬季松鼠毛皮作帽子的里襯。
毛皮也有紋章的象征意義膨桥,畫家用它們來表現(xiàn)圖騰蛮浑。